Tokyo Architecture Tour

Just a fun view of the Marunouchi Building outside of Tokyo Station.

We can't resist one last chance to explore our adopted home city!  The Tokyo American Club offers an urban Tokyo architecture tour and we quickly sign up to participate.  Our guide is Erez Golani Solomon, a professional architect and author of a book about 21st century contemporary Tokyo architecture.  The information he shares is interesting - he doesn't really point out features of buildings, but gives us the historical and cultural significance of the construction.

Zero spot!

We start at Nihonbashi (Bridge of Japan).  There's been a bridge in this location since the start of the Edo period, in the early 1600s, and the current steel model was built in 1911.  During the Edo and Meiji periods the bridge was the main location for sharing information with the public (notices, speeches, etc).  This location is considered the center of Tokyo, since the zero kilometer marker is in the center of the bridge.  All local roadway measurements come from this spot.  

The two bridges crossing each other.

Just as we're seeing now, there was a lot of construction leading up to the Olympics that Tokyo hosted in 1964.  The highway system was one of the main projects at that time, but afterwards people were unhappy with the interstate covering/shading the Nihonbashi.  Different ideas have been put forth over the years to "fix" the situation, but none of them have had enough popularity to move forward.  Erez believes the juxtaposition of the bridges from different time periods, with the "newer" bridge representing the push for progress so popular in the 1960s, shows value in keeping the structures the same.

No move views of Mt. Fuji here.

As we walk along he stops to point out a specific alley to us.  When the city was originally constructed there were eighteen streets designed to frame views of Mt Fuji.  Unfortunately, now every sight line to the mountain is blocked by buildings.

We walk to Mitsukoshi, the first department store in Japan.  He doesn't point out any building features, but explains how it created the connection between shopping, transportation and the daily commute for people.  A subway station was immediately built to accommodate the store - the first time a business was serviced instead of a neighborhood.  The building also provided a location for Western commerce to be introduced to the country.

Bank of Japan

After walking outside, we venture over to the First Bank of Japan, located at the site of the former gold mint.  This was built in 1896 and was the first time a commission was given to a private architect for a public building.  Interestingly, the architect, Tatsuno Kingo, was a graduate of the first class of the College of Engineering (classes were taught by an Englishman). There's some construction going on around the building, so unfortunately we can't see part of the building and the moat?? that surrounds it.

We continue our path with a shortcut through Tokyo Station...but none of us have any idea how to repeat the steps we take - it must be an architectural secret - finding a way through Tokyo Station without ever being stopped by a turnstile.  It's much faster than walking around the entire building, which is what everyone's always done.  (FYI - if you're not familiar with Tokyo Station, it's HUGE - the floor space alone covers 46 acres, and it can easily be over a mile between platforms.  Trains are on tracks down to 5 stories below ground, and there are a few hundred stores and restaurants inside, along with hundreds of exits.  Everyone has a story of being lost in Tokyo Station - not just me!)

While crossing through, Erez points out the intersection of public and private property - if you pay attention you see where one flooring ends and another begins.  We have some discussions regarding "privately owned public spaces."  If the government allows a private entity to purchase public land, they usually have to include communal areas in their construction, so it's still open to all.

public flooring on one side, private on the other

Easier to see private vs public construction in the wall.

When we emerge from Tokyo Station we discuss its construction.  Starting about 10 years ago they began work recreating the original building (which was destroyed by bombs in WWII).   It was rebuilt after the war, but about a decade ago a push was made to return to the initial style.  It's almost complete, with just some work being done on the grounds (unfortunately, it still blocks the view of the station).  The large open space in front of the station was very important to the design of the station.  Before the Meiji period, there were no planned opened spaces in Japan (like piazzas in Italy).  However, it was decided that people needed a place for social communication hubs and cultural symbols.  Now you can find public spaces at all the stations in Japan. 

The center door is only for the Emperor and his family.

The space in front of Tokyo Station is also important because the walkway connects Tokyo Station to the Imperial Palace, so at the time it was built the emperor was giving it his "seal of approval."  The center entrance is only for the imperial family (though most of the time the emperor uses his helicopter or Toyota - no train travel for him!).

JP Tower - see the clock?

You can also view buildings from the three different modern building periods.  The JP Tower has at it's base the replica of the first "modern" building in Tokyo (it was finished in 1924).  In the center of the building is a clock - the first time one was placed in a public space.  It started a cultural shift within Japan in having a consistent method of keeping time.


One other noteworthy feature - you can see a "shelf" along the different buildings and with the height of Tokyo Station.  This represents the old building standard - you were not allowed to construct something higher than the Imperial Palace, at 32 meters. 

See the shelf at the Marunouchi Building in the foreground, and the JP Tower in the background.

Not part of the tour, but I'm able to find quilting designs in windows and bridges as we wander around!

Cut glass windows have traditional designs in them.

Bridges are always good places to look!

Tokyo International Forum - we saw Rent here.

At the Tokyo International Forum, finished in 1996, Erez tells us how much he dislikes this building.  His opinion is it's a waste of space and too ostentatious, and would prefer the location be used to be more family/people friendly.  It's used as a convention and art center, and has 11 stories above ground and 3 below.  The curve of the building matches the curve of the train tracks coming out of nearby Tokyo Station.  

Most of the members of the tour didn't seem to share his opinion on the building.  People mentioned it felt light and airy and uplifting.  During this discussion, Erez shares his favorite building - the Teshima Museum.  It consists of a single artwork dedicated to the play of water drops on a concrete surface.  I don't know - maybe you actually have to be there to "feel it."

Teshima Museum - exterior shot

Teshima Museum - interior shot

We continue walking to the old Sony Headquarters building.  It's currently being torn down, with Sony creating a park in its place.  Erez thinks it's probably a PR move for the Olympics, and a new building will be built in late 2020s. The initial structure was built for the 1964 Olympics. It's typical in Tokyo to tear down the old to put up something new. We learn that buildings have "best by" dates, set by the government and based on various factors.  For example, a wooden house is expected to last 18 years (a concrete office building might be 50 years).  At certain points during that time period improvements may be required, to meet current earthquake codes, etc.  At the end of the use period, it's typically easier to tear down the building and start new then to make all the necessary changes to the existing facility.  That's partially why there's so much construction in Tokyo.

Under construction.  You're actually looking at netting around what was the building - this is always done in Japan to prevent items from falling on pedestrians.

A real building?

The last building we discuss is the Nakagin Capsule Tower, constructed in 1973, and considered one of the most well known buildings in architecture.  It's an example of Japanese Metabolism, a style that fused ideas about architectural mega structures with organic biological growth (We weren't quite accepting it - as one person in our group said, it looks like a pile of old washing machines stuck together).  It consists of 144 small compartments (105 sq ft each) to be used as apartments or offices. 

Capsule interior - for some reason I don't think they're all this clean.

Similar to the idea of "tiny houses" today, they were to be very efficient living spaces with built-ins, a kitchen and bathroom.  They are "plugged in" to a central tower, using only four high tension bolts.  The idea was that when you wanted to move, you could just take your capsule and plug it in somewhere else.  They were expected to be used by "salarymen" as a place to stay in town during the business week.

This style represented a change in urban architectural thinking, as a result of seeing how the city was destroyed during WWII, along with disassociating a building from the ground, and creating urban living for the single man.  Apparently it did not catch on, since no other towers were built.  Today, about 20% of the rooms are used, but the rest are in disrepair.  Each capsule is independently owned, and an approval vote of 80% of the owners is needed to accomplish any changes (or demolition).  So it's just languishing right now.  (Side fact:  The architect, Kisho Kurokawa, also designed the National Art Center in Tokyo, which opened in 2006 and has won several architecture awards.)

We make a final stop at the (free) 46th floor observation platform at the Caretta Shiodome building.  We face east from here, and have nice views of Tsukiji Fish Market, Hamarikyu Gardens, and the man-made islands of Tokyo.

Tsukiji Fish Market in the center, bordering the Sumida river

Hamarikyu Garden, with the Rainbow bridge near the upper right corner

We can also view the Olympic Village under construction.  It's where the cranes are in the upper right part of the picture.  On the left side you can see an empty bridge - no cars or pedestrians.  That's to connect the Village with the main part of Tokyo.  However, the fish market was supposed to move a year ago, but there's been some issues with the new location.  Supposedly, it will move next year, allowing construction to continue on the road out of the Village.  I have faith that Japan will have it all finished in time!

Will the Olympic Village and its road be ready in time for 2020?  Stay tuned!

It's been an informative and fascinating tour!