Living with a Dog in Tokyo

Still one of my favorite pictures - taken the day after we landed in Japan.

One of the reasons I want to write this blog is to help share information with people in a similar situation.  In the months before we moved to Japan I scoured the web searching for tidbits of information about living in a foreign country with dogs (and when Steve traveled to Tokyo on business trips before we arrived, he had a list of questions he was supposed to ask any English speaking person he saw with a dog).  Maybe a bit of what I learn will help out someone else.

Before coming to Tokyo we were apprehensive about bringing our dogs.  There was no doubt we would take them with us, but they were used to having a fenced in backyard to run around with plenty of room to use the bathroom, and going for five mile hikes, off leash.  How would they adjust to city life?  Many of the parks in Japan have greenery, but it's all landscaped, with lots of low walls and shrub borders.   (BTW, a garden that charges an admittance fee usually does not allow pets inside.)  Our dogs are used to using the bathroom on grass or pine needles, so will they adjust to having just a scrap of space while being poked with sharp branches? 

Arisugawa Park, where the dogs are allowed to go.

We also had concerns about the different living space.  Usually they go out as soon as we wake up, and then maybe five more times during the day (or whenever they look at us, begging with their eyes).  The 39th floor apartment we choose for our Tokyo home isn't conducive to quick trips outside.

It turns out, we didn't need to worry about it.  They quickly adapt to being city dogs, as if that is all they know.  We never have a problem (or accident) with the extra time spent waiting for the elevator.  And going out only three times a day is not a problem.  And if we're on a walk, going in the middle of the bushes never stops Tahoe, and Tie-Dye will just use the sidewalk.  Luckily, we always walk with poop pick-up bags!  For the first month we also carry spray bottles of water, to dilute the urine puddle, but we stop doing that because we never see anyone else using one.

One corner of Aoyama Park, with the last of the cherry trees blooming.

Even though going in the bushes isn't an issue, we still feel lucky with our building choice.  We happen to find the one place in Tokyo that has a wide open grassy area, that allows dogs. [Some of the popular expat parks near residential areas, like Arisawaga Park (see pic above) and Shiba Park, do not allow dogs to go to the bathroom in the grassy areas, because classes of students will eat their lunch there - forcing the dogs to use the landscaped areas].  Our building, Park Axis Aoyama 1-Chome Tower, is next to the north section of Aoyama Park, which consists of about 5 acres of grass, with a few bushes and cherry trees.  It's popular during hanami (cherry blossom party) season, but not so busy that the dogs can't wander around.  There are also some pretty flower beds, maintained by local gardening clubs.  Occasionally kids play and run around in the area, but they mostly stay in the adjoining playground.  It's perfect for dogs, and we often see other ones there, for the same purpose.  At first I was a little uncertain about walking the dogs by myself at night, but Tokyo is one of the safest cities in the world, and I never feel threatened.

One portion of the north part of Aoyama Park - look at all that grass!

Another section of Aoyama Park

Playing in the park during hanami season!

"Really?  Do I have to put up with this again?!"

Most dogs in our area are miniature versions - under 20 pounds, and very cute!  Some people like their dogs to socialize, some do not.  We try to ask before allowing our dogs to go up to other dogs.  I think sometimes the owners are worried our large dogs (at least for Japan - Tahoe's weight is about 40 lbs and Tie-Dye is 50 lbs) are going to eat their little ones!  But Tie-Dye loves the small dogs, and they usually love him.  They know they can jump all over him and he won't do anything.
 

Along one of the pathways in the cemetey

One of the wide sidewalks at the cemetery.

Another popular area to walk dogs is Aoyama Cemetery.  (I have to ask three different Japanese people before I feel comfortable bringing the dogs there.  They all assure me it's okay!)  It's a 65-acre cemetery with few roads running through it, making it very convenient to take hour long hikes or jogs with your pets.  It's also popular for large dogs to get exercise here.  The grave sites are varied and unique, and looking at their architecture makes for a nice view as you wander around. 

I like the little cobblestone walkways - I think Tie-Dye does, too.

Another good place for long walks/jogs is around the Akasaka Palace grounds.  There's limited traffic lights, so you don't have to make many stops.  It's good to go early on a Saturday morning - it gets busier with running clubs and foot traffic later in the day.  (Sprinting around the Imperial Palace grounds is also a popular spot, but that's too far away for us to use with the dogs.)
 

Luckily, I can always see my apartment building from the cemetery, so I can't get lost!

I'm able to easily get dog food from Costco.   They sell multiple Kirkland and Iams brands.  My US Costco membership card works at the Japan stores, and I can have the food delivered to my apartment. (For $5 or $10 - I forget the amount.  Either way, it's worth it so I don't have to carry 40 lbs of dog food!)  You cannot order from the Costco website though - you have to go to the store to make the purchase.  If you're willing to pay extra (or don't have a Costco membership - though it's actually cheaper to join in Japan, about $40/year) you can order the food (and other items from Costco) from either www.theflyingpig.com or www.hilomarket.com.  Just be aware that they mark up the items 50% (on top of the higher prices already being charged in Japan vs the US).  Dogs are a luxury item in Japan, and items associated with them are priced accordingly.  It can also be difficult to find accessories for larger dogs, so we bring stuff like additional heavy duty retractable leashes, etc, in our shipment so we know we can replace it if it breaks.

There's also a decent size pet store in Roppongi, Kojima, that has dog toys, treats, and food (along with cat stuff, etc).  My dogs love the dried fish treats. 

Their favorite dog treats!  Made in
Japan - and only a few dollars for the bag.

Kojima pet store

We use the Akasaka Animal Hospital, which is only a 20 minute walk from the apartment building.  Dogs cannot ride in public transportation (I don't think any animals can, except service ones), and they can only be in a taxi if they're inside a carrier.  Our carriers wouldn't even fit in a taxi, so we have to walk there.  Luckily we never had a situation where they were hurt and couldn't make the trek.  There is a vet who speaks some English (I believe the vet who is fluent in English may no longer be there, but I'm not sure).  However, one time when I was worried Tie-Dye had an infection and needed to go in the same day I called, they hired a translator so the veterinarian and I could communicate easily.  There is also a receptionist who is fluent in English, which is a big help when you call to make an appointment.

Akasaka Animal Hospital - located in Akasaka-mitsuke,
on the second floor above the Lawsons.

Causing us much heartbreak, Tahoe was diagnosed with lymphoma cancer, along with other issues, after we lived here for about a year.  Akasaka Animal Hospital did a wonderful job explaining our options and what we could expect, but they did not bring up putting her to sleep until we did.  I'm not sure if that is a cultural issue, but when we did ask about it they strongly recommended it (they really didn't think she would survive the emergency surgery she would need).  We were able to take her home for a couple of days and keep her comfortable, so her final days were with us, until we went back for her appointment.  The staff were very sympathetic - afterwards they even sent us flowers (talking with some Japanese friends later, we learned that was not customary).  I don't think it could have been handled any better in the United States.

I thought Tie-Dye looked really cute when he rubbed his eyes.  I feel bad when I realize he's rubbing because he has an eye infection.

We do have an occasion where we needed to bring Tie-Dye to a "specialist."  He has three eye infections in a five week period, including one while at the kennel.  The kennel owner recommends we bring Tie-Dye to an animal eye specialist, because he feels the vets in Japan don't know a lot about eyes.  So we find Triangle Animal Eye Clinic (website - in Japanese only), about 3 miles from our apartment, which is a little too far to walk.  We have to use a pet taxi in order to drive us there and back.  The company name is One House (website - in Japanese only), which charges a reasonable price (at least, it feels reasonable after living in Japan for almost two years).  It's around $80 for the round trip, including waiting time while we're at the Clinic (about 3 hours total).

Part of Tie-Dye's eye therapy - having to wear an eye mask I heat in the microwave.  He doesn't actually like it - I have to hold it on his face so he doesn't drop his nose causing it to slide off.

Both the Eye Clinic and One House have only Japanese speaking employees, so we use the Tokyo American Club to help arrange the appointments.  However, the Triangle Eye Clinic requires us to have a translator.  That's very surprising, and the first time we have the onerous on us to find a translator.  I figure there are companies where we can easily hire one, because Steve has used one occasionally for work purposes, or when we have dealings with companies they would have a translator there for us if they don't speak English.  However, it turns out the companies that provide translators only work with businesses - not individuals!  And if we are able to hire one, it's for a minimum of 4 hours and at a cost of $600.  Eek!  Luckily, we're able to have a friend assist us (and for our second visit, the doctor has just returned from a week long seminar in Baltimore, so he speaks English with us the whole time).

(Side note: It turns out Tie-Dye just has very dry eyes - a liquid is not distributed across the eye ball because he doesn't close his eyes all the way when he blinks.  No surgery or other invasive procedures are needed, but he will have eye drops and "blinking exercises" probably for the rest of his life.)

One of our other concerns about moving is having a place for them to stay when we travel.  We expected to be able to have a dog sitter at the apartment, but in the fine print of our contract it says that someone else cannot care for the dog at the building.  So I do a run around Tokyo, checking out all the nearby kennels...and I'm practically in tears.  For the most part, they are set up for little dogs - the largest cages they have are smaller than our dogs' airplane kennels.  They also don't smell very clean, and the dogs staying there look to be in distress.  I save the one with the best recommendations to visit last, Dog Inc (English site here), and it turns out to way, way, better than the other eight kennels I stop at.

Will jump for treats!

I visit each kennel without an appointment, so I can see what they are "really" like.  When I walk inside Dog, Inc, there are 5-6 dogs playing together in one section of the floor, in another part a person is playing with a dog, and in a different area an older dog is resting quietly.  It also smells clean, and none of the dogs look anxious.  All the employees speak limited English, and I'm able to make an appointment to meet with the owner, who is fluent.  On my return I find the dogs in similar situations, and I enjoy talking with Toru Yamada.  He is truly a dog whisperer - even I start calming down and relaxing as I speak with him.  I get a full tour, including the back room where the dogs rest in kennels between play times.  The room of about fifteen dogs is quiet until we walk in and turn on the lights - but they are sleeping comfortably before that.  He assures me he has large kennels for my dogs, so they will have enough space.  The first time we leave them he can tell Tie-Dye is a little apprehensive, so he takes him for a run to help him work off some energy, and he ends up being fine. 

Lots of play time at Dog, Inc!

He has another bit of adjustment at the kennel after Tahoe dies.  Previously, for the nights, we have them booked in the suite, which is a room about 8 feet by 10 feet.  My dogs aren't really used to staying in a kennel overnight, and I want them to have more space to stretch out.  However, Tie-Dye is stressed being in the room by himself.  The kennel tries different alternatives to see what makes Tie-Dye more comfortable.  They come to the conclusion he's happiest when he is in the kennel near the other dogs - he just doesn't like being alone.  Toru makes the suggestion that we use the kennel at night, even though that means his fee is cut by more than a third.  I appreciate his honesty, and his concern about Tie-Dye!  And Tie-Dye loves going - he starts to bark with excitement when he recognizes his kennel bag.  Dog, Inc has a pickup/drop off service (for a fee), so he is easily able to get to and from the kennel, located in Kawasaki.

Of course, arranging their entry to Japan through the Animal Quarantine Control was it's own long (7-month), exacting process.  I wrote about it early in the blog, and you can read it here, here and here.  Luckily, planning Tie-Dye's export doesn't seem like it will be as arduous.