Friday, June 9, 2017

Matsumoto

True colors!
With no train service, we're back on the bus for our next destination, the town of Matsumoto in central Honshu (the main island of Japan).  It's about a 90 minute ride from Hirayu Onsen.  As we travel down from the mountains, we're treated to scenic lakes and blooming cherry trees.

Now I feel like I'm back in New Zealand.















Bonus cherry blooms in the foothills - they've already finished in Tokyo.















Steve thinks he'll be able to do this in our yard when we get home.

We enter the outskirts of Matsumoto and I'm charmed by the small houses with beautifully landscaped yards - it looks like they have giant bonsai trees!  THIS is what I was expecting it to be like in Kyoto - I'm glad I've finally found the location of the pretty city I pictured.  Here are some quick shots as the bus drives through town.



And they ALL look like this!  I wonder if it's a city ordinance.

Castle selfie!
Our first stop is the most well known landmark, Matsumoto Castle. (I had been bemoaning the fact that most Japanese and European castles are named after people and places, and not given fun, unique names like in Game of Thrones.  However, while researching this post, I discovered that it does have the nickname "Crow Castle" because of the black exterior and wing shaped roof line.  There's nothing at the site to indicate that, though.)  It's considered one of Japan's original castles, and was built in the 16th century.  It still contains the original wooden interiors and external stonework.  I'm assuming termites are not a problem in Japan!  We're able to walk around (barefoot - you're required to take off your shoes) while it's relatively uncrowded (more on that later).  

People waiting to enter.


Like all Japanese castles, it's basically empty inside (there are some displays and descriptions of weapons currently here).  During the earlier time periods they didn't use heavy furniture or statues to decorate - mostly they slept on futons that would be rolled up and put away in the daytime.  Instead of chairs they sat on the floor at low tables.  Art works consisted of wall hangings, flower arrangements, written poems or items of every day use made very well, like painted screens.  It helped with the defense of the castle, because samurai could move around the floors very easily.  


The castle is six stories, though it only appears like five on the outside because they didn't put windows on one floor (to confuse attackers and to use as a storage area).  The stairs are very narrow and steep - similar to what you would find on a boat.  Windows face in all four directions, and from the top floor you have a 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside.  The castle also has defensive features, like arrow slits and special chutes that allowed the defenders to drop rocks or boiling water on people below.  And of course, there's a moat!
What moon?

The last part we see is the moon viewing room, built around 1635.  I don't know how effective it was, because it has a roof with an overhang, so you can't see much of the sky at a time.  The large windows do make a nice frame for pictures of the exterior garden.

We happen to arrive as they are getting ready to do a demonstration of antique guns.  We sit for awhile, waiting for it to start.  The "samurai" march out, and then speeches are made - all in Japanese (of course).  We decide we're bored, and go ahead and enter the castle.  It does help to keep the crowds outside, so we don't have to wait too long to climb some of the stairs.  While we're exploring we hear some gunshots, and we're able to peek out at some of the shooting.  I'm kind of glad we're actually inside the castle - some of the viewers are sitting close to the targets! 

The black lines in the grass is the footprint of another building that used to be on the grounds.

I hope it's not still loaded!


After we exit, the samurai are posing for pictures with the visitors.  Steve jumps right in with no hesitation!







"These are the voyages of the starship Azalea..."





As we walk around the gardens and surrounding area, we come across this little azalea bush.  The sign is in English and Japanese, so we're able to learn that the plant is being grown from seeds that have traveled to outer space.  Cool!  Maybe I'll be able to go in outer space one day, too.


One last photo, complete with castle, bridge and flowers.

Our hotel is close enough that we can walk back from the castle (and do a little souvenir shopping, too).  Earlier we'd dropped off our bags, but we couldn't check in at the time.  We're able to do so now, then Steve finds a pizza place, Pizza Verde Matsumoto, for us to have dinner.  Later we both have a shiatsu massage.  Why can't we ever seem to find shiatsu in Tokyo?

So pretty!
The next morning we're off to see a little bit more of the city.  I love the manhole covers here.  They're covered with pictures of temari, a Japanese thread ball.  I've seen them for sale (they always make me think of Christmas ornaments) and I've purchased a kit to make one, but I haven't done it yet.  Now maybe I'm inspired...

Starting in the 1980s municipalities were allowed to design their own manhole covers, and it became a bit of a competition between them to see who could create the best design.  There's over 6000 different ones in Japan 
                                                                     and there's even a Japan Society of Manhole Covers.

Will this frog keep you safe or attack you?
There's a shopping area here named Nakamachi Street that's lined with old merchant houses that have been turned into stores.  The area also has many frog statues!  Luckily, one place has a sign, in English, to explain it.  A shrine was built here in 1879 and the river bank became an entrance to the shrine.  Because horse carriages were not allowed along the river bank, the shrine began to promote events and entertainment there to encourage visitors.  Naturally, people also began businesses along the river bank, due to the increased crowds.  Since no vehicles were allowed, the shop owners said the street is a place where you can come, buy and go home safely (in Japanese - kaeru).  The word frog is also kaeru in Japanese, so visitors started calling it Frog St.  Business owners began putting up frog statues to watch over everyone and keep them safe.


One of the shops along the street

Water fountains are also very common along the sidewalk.  The city brags about how fresh and clean tasting the liquid is, and many businesses have unique displays to provide people with free drinking water.  Steve makes sure to try them all!

I'd give this a 9 on a scale of 1-10.

Hmmm...I think I detect a hint of asparagus.


















After a little bit of shopping (Tie-Dye may have gotten a stuffed frog toy) we're ready to head back home.  We're grateful to be back in "civilization," and have no problems hailing a taxi, stopping at a 7-11 for a drink and catching our train for the 2 1/2 hour ride back to Tokyo.

The frog's thoughts, " Why is this guy touching me?!?"

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