Heading Home

Our ANA flight has arrived at Houston Bush International Airport (only an hour late, despite a two hour delay for take off), and we're anxious to see how Tie-Dye did on the flight.  I had looked online to try to understand where we pick him up, but I couldn't discover any information.  I'm unsure if we'll get him at the airport or if we'll have to go to the cargo facility. (For example, United Airlines states on their website that pets on their flights are picked up at cargo for Houston, regardless if they're checked or cargo.  ANA is a partner of United, but I don't know if they follow the same procedures for checked dogs).

We enter immigration, and we're happy to see it's only a short line for the kiosks.  Unfortunately, once you finish there it's a looonnngggg line to see the immigration officers.  There is one shorter, priority-type line, and since we've had to answer "yes" on the form because we have a live animal, we're happy we're  sent to that section.  When we reach the desk, we mention we have a dog waiting, and the gentleman nicely tells the people in line he'll be right back, and he escorts us down to a special section of customs (I feel bad for the people stuck waiting in line, but he's only gone a couple of minutes).

We meet with another officer there, and he explains he'll have someone pick up our four checked suitcases, then we'll get Tie-Dye and process through customs (again, we're in a special customs area, separate from the regular one - it's a restricted area).  The attendant who's going to the carousel for our luggage asks if Steve can help, so he goes with him - which is useful because Steve knows what our bags look like.

I'm waiting for about 10 minutes at the desk, when I look through the glass walls and I can see Steve walking back from the giant baggage claim area.  He's still a distance away, but he has his arm up in the air with a "thumbs up."  I figure he's indicating all our luggage made it, but then as he gets closer I see Tie-Dye's kennel on his cart - he has him!  And he's okay!

In addition to zip-tying the door closed, Japan also put a plastic netting around the entire kennel, but the holes are about 1 cm square, so we can still reach in and touch him.  The paper lining the bottom is pretty dry, so he may not have been panting too much (which he does when he's stressed), and he hasn't used the bathroom, but his water bucket is dry.  I don't think much (if any) spilled, but he had a lot of water for the trip - it's a 64 oz container and I had at least 50 oz of water in it.  I specifically have a bottle of water ready in case it's an issue, and I pour some in through the netting and door, which he immediately drinks.

We're now ready to go through customs.  I hand the officer Tie-Dye's rabies certificate and his Japan export papers, and he barely glances at the rabies form and says, "It's good until 2018?" and hands it back to me.  It's a little less rigorous than entering Japan!  All our suitcases go through an x-ray machine, and we're given the green light.  We're officially back in the US!

We exit through the same doors as everyone else, into the lobby of the Terminal E International Arrivals Hall.  There's Mom and Dad!  They've come to be extra sets of hands and help get us organized.  We go outside, to a covered parking lot area.  Steve and Dad hop on the car rental shuttle to get our (American-sized) minivan.  Mom and I rescue Tie-Dye from the kennel.  Right around the corner the sidewalk continues, and there's some spots with grass and weeds growing through (we're beside the road circling the airport).  Tie-Dye is finally able to relieve his bladder.  It's not an area that has a lot of foot traffic.

Once Steve and Dad return with the minivan we're able to load it up.  It all fits!  We then caravan over to a nearby gas station with a big grassy area, so Tie-Dye can finish going to the bathroom and we can eat lunch.  Mom manages to grant my wish - she picked up Chick-fil-a biscuits that morning, and kept them warm in a cooler.  They taste just as good as I remember!

I should be glad there aren't
relighting candles on the cookie cake!

We drive a few hours to my sister's house, where we're reunited with my nieces and nephews, who we haven't seen for almost three years.  Mom has cooked a homemade lasagna just for us (well, we share with the family).  We also do a quick late birthday celebration, then send the kids off to trick or treat.  I'm exhausted (I barely slept on the plane, so I've only gotten about six hours of sleep in the last 60 hours), so we leave early to go to the hotel for the night.

Kids and company, ready to collect some candy!
Wait, where's Mom's costume?

We spend the next day taking care of business, like getting my phone set up to use in the US and going to Walmart (where I can read all the signs - they're in English!) to pick up supplies for when we return to our house - it's empty because everything's in storage or on a container ship.  (Steve maybe tries to do some work, too.)  We spend the evening with family, and discover my sister is a genius at the game Boggle - something everyone else already knows, since they had made a rule that she only gets half the points for her words - and she still manages to win most of the time.  We collapse exhausted again that night, as we're still adjusting to the time change.

The next morning, after breakfast with my parents, we drive a few hours to our friends' house.  They take the afternoon off from work so we can visit with them, and Tie-Dye is excited to be reunited with one of his best dog friends.  They obviously still remember each other!  

Finally - a dog my size I can play with!

US steak again...yum!!

Our friends also grant our requests, to cook armadillo eggs, US filet mignon and corn on the cob.  It's delicious!  Beef is very good in Japan, but it's so rich in fat you can't eat very much without getting sick.  It's scrumptious to enjoy 8 ounces of perfectly cooked, medium rare steak! 

That night, it's nice to have an entire room in a house to ourselves.  Everything feels so spacious after our 1100 sq ft apartment. 

Everyone looks very comfy on the bed...but where will I sleep??

The following day we're off to drive the rest of the way home.  I spend most of the trip on the phone, taking care of chores - calling to change the mailing address for the utility bills, etc.  As we get closer, the excitement starts to build.

Along the way, we stop and pick up one other item I've been craving while in Japan - linguine with red clams from my favorite local Italian restaurant!  Bliss!

My favorite takeout

The preferred bathroom spot!

As we pull into the neighborhood Tie-Dye starts to look around - he must recognize the smell.  We reach the house, and it's still standing!  We arranged to have it cleaned and the yard work taken care of before we come home, so it's empty, but ready for us.

What an adventure we've had!  In Japan, we spent time in Tokyo (obviously), Hakone, Kyoto, Miyakajima, Sapporo, the Japanese Alps & Matusmoto, Hiroshima and Miyajima.  While living there, we were also able to take advantage of Tokyo being a starting point closer to Asia/Oceania than the US to travel internationally - New Zealand, China, Bali, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Singapore, the Maldives and Alaska (hey, it's international from Japan).  We weren't able to visit everywhere we wanted to go (Jeju Island in South Korea - I'm thinking of you) but we checked off a lot of places on the list.  We'd talked about taking an around the world cruise when Steve retires, but after the past two years, I told Steve I didn't think it was necessary - so maybe we manage to save money in the long run. :)  

However, Dorothy has it right - there's no place like home.  I think Japan is one of the best places to be an expat - it's an exciting major city, but also very clean and safe.  You're treated wonderfully by the people there, but you're still always a guest.  You just don't have the same comfort level as you do being in the United States.  We're overjoyed we had the opportunity to experience living overseas for a couple of years, but we're happy to be home.

Home!

I'm unsure how often I'll be posting from now on - life is generally less exciting for us here (in a good way).  I may have some updates on adjusting back to being in the United States (I have to drive again!) and some quilting or book posts, but it won't be as frequent.  If you've been reading the blog, I hope you've enjoyed our stories.  If you're doing research for living in Japan or overseas (or even just for recommendations on fabric shopping in Tokyo) maybe knowing about our experiences makes it a little easier for you.  Occasionally it felt like a chore to keep up with the blog, but overall it was a pleasure to look back and record our narrative.

Last Day

View of the sunrise from the apartment, on our day of departure

Our last full day in Japan goes well.  We start with a beautiful morning, perfect for me to walk Tie-Dye for a couple of hours while Steve meets with representatives from the apartment building, realtor, employer, and inspector to check the rooms for damage.  They find a few spots on the wall, which we're aware of, but otherwise it all looks good.  Our damage fines shouldn't be too high (hopefully)....

Good to the last drop!

Steve remembers I have a card with money on it for the wine dispenser at the Tokyo American Club.  We try not to be wasteful, so we go there for lunch and to use up the card. :)

Back at the apartment, we're finishing the final preparations, making sure everything is disposed of and packed correctly.  We're checking four bags (and Tie-Dye), plus our carry ons.  I'm a little nervous because the ANA website says the combined weight of your carry ons should be less than 22 lbs.  We have everything that can't be checked/shipped (like electronics & valuables) in our carry on bags, and we test out Steve's - and it comes to 40 lbs.  We realize there's no way we can get close to the limit, so we leave everything in them and hope they don't ask us to weigh them - and if they do then we'll just have to beg for their mercy.

We send three of the checked bags to the airport ahead of time.  About six months ago I learn the shipping companies offer it as a service in the Tokyo area, so you don't have to cart your suitcases around on the trains.  It's pretty simple, and our apartment building is nice enough to fill out the forms for us in Japanese (though Yamato shipping's website has a guide in English, it's probably easier for the employees to read it in their native language).  One (very small) section asks you to write the contents of the luggage.  I just say clothes - that's what it is, mostly (though maybe Tie-Dye sneaks in a bag of dried fish treats to bring to the US).

The shipping part is easy, but it makes packing a little more challenging.  We're trying to remember what we need (clothing, toiletries, dog stuff, etc) for the few days left in Japan and then for a few days as we drive home.  I don't want to pull out six suitcases every night during the road trip, so I try to pack the stuff we'll need in one bag...and I decide I can use the same items during the last days in Tokyo (I can just wash them the final night in the apartment)...until I remember that suitcase is going to the airport three days before our flight.  After lots of rearranging it's all done - or at least I'm stuck with what's left - no more changes!  (And I discover I only put one item in the shipment that I meant to take with me - Tie-Dye's brushes.  We consider buying new ones, until Steve goes to the store and discovers they're $50 each.  We make due with a $7 hairbrush.  I want to brush the loose fur off him, because I'm worried he'll be too warm in the kennel during tomorrow's flight.)

Our favorite waiter!

Our final dinner is at our favorite Italian restaurant, just a five minute walk from the apartment building, Trattoria Casale del Patacocone.  We love sitting downstairs, where Steve can easily go over to watch his pizza being cooked in the giant copper oven.  About six months ago they got new menus with an English translation (instead of just Italian and Japanese), and I joke it took some of the fun out of it.  The specials are written in Japanese, but they always take the time to read them out to us in English. 

Steve tries to pick up tips for cooking pizza!

Goodbye messages with our desserts!  I hope we do see them again.

The next morning, I'm up early so I can give Tie-Dye a nice 30-40 minute walk so he can stretch his legs and completely empty his bladder...plus it gives me a chance to work off some of my nerves, too.  Back at the apartment Steve is disposing of our air mattress and comforter, and anything else we need to get rid of (extra toilet paper rolls, etc).  We're all ready for our pet taxi at 6:50 am.  It's the same company we use for Tie-Dye's eye appointments, One House (website, in Japanese, here).  He's charging us $225, which is better than the $400 we were charged when we arrived in Japan.  His "minivan" is smaller though (it's a typical Japanese size minivan, not a US one), and we can just fit two adults, a large dog, his kennel, a big duffel bag, and our carry on luggage.  That's one of the reasons why we sent the other big suitcases ahead.

The good dog, ready for his flight!

We have a little delay due to an accident (not us), but we still arrive at Narita in time for Tie-Dye's export inspection.  We have to hunt down a flat bed cart though, because the luggage carts (with angled bottoms) are too small for the kennel.  Thanks to the assistance of an employee at the special needs counter (I figure we qualify) we're able to find one and go to the correct doors for the Animal Quarantine Service.  I call to tell them we've arrived, and someone comes out to escort Tie-Dye and me, while Steve stays with our suitcases.  After a couple of hallways, we reach the exam room, which is similar to a vet's office.  I give the inspector Tie-Dye's paperwork, and Tie-dye comes out of his kennel so can he check both his microchips, along with ears and mouth, and listens to his heart.  This is more than they did at import!  But he's all good, and I receive the certificate (and I'm told if he comes back to Japan I need to have both the original import and export certificates).  Tie-Dye thinks he's at a vet, so he's actually glad to jump back in his kennel before he can get a shot (no shots at AQS, but he doesn't realize it).

I wheel Tie-Dye back to Steve, and we go to check in.  As we enter the departure area, Steve remembers we need to pick up our luggage.  I'd completely forgotten!  This time I stay behind while he goes to the correct counter.  I use the time to place Tie-Dye's bucket of frozen water in his kennel.  I've been keeping it in a collapsible cooler, because it's been about two hours since we left the apartment.  It's still solid, so hopefully it won't slosh around when it comes time to board him on the plane.

Once we have all our belongings, we go to ANA.  Previously, we had debated trying to go straight to the business counters to check in, even though we're in coach, because we were worried about Tie-Dye barking and causing problems in line.  But he's doing fine, and the staff actually directs us to a special counter so we don't have to wait (having three carts, eight suitcases/bags, and a large kennel probably helps).  The staff is nice to Tie-Dye, and I don't have the heart to tell them that staring at him and saying nice things doesn't really help him.  Everything gets checked in, they promise to take good care of Tie-Dye, and no one asks to weigh our carry on bags, so we're set.

At immigration we tell them we aren't planning to return, so our residence cards are hole punched, indicating they are no longer valid.  We get to keep them, so that's a nice souvenir.  We make it to our gate, and it's time to board, when they announce a delay.  Fifteen minutes later they tell us we're changing planes (due to a bird strike on the plane we're supposed to be on - apparently maintenance looks at it and decides the plane shouldn't fly today) and there will be another 90 minute delay.  I'm impressed they can have us ready to go so quickly, but I'm concerned about Tie-Dye.  I speak with one of the ANA representatives, and they assure me we're on the same type of plane, so he can fly with us, and he's in a temperature controlled area while we wait.  I hate that he's now going to have to wait about 15 hours before he can go to the bathroom, but there's nothing we can do about it.  [BTW, there's no trouble with getting a meal voucher for the inconvenience of waiting.  They immediately start announcing, in Japanese and English, that you only need to show your ticket at a restaurant or shop to receive a $10 credit towards your purchase (or $15 if you're sitting in business, and $20 if you're in first).  Even the $10 covers the cost of lunch, or a drink, or some snacks.  Very easy - I wish they did this in the US!]

Waiting for takeoff!

Once we're on the plane, I flag down one of the flight attendants, asking her to verify that Tie-Dye is on the plane (especially with the change).  Right as we push back from the gate, she returns and tells me he's on board. (Good, because if she said he wasn't, it would have been quite a fuss for us to go back and get him!)

The flight is pretty smooth, except for some light turbulence that lasts for about an hour.  I can't hear any barking while we're in the air, so I take it as a good sign.  Now that we've arrived in Houston, how do we get Tie-Dye back??

Packing Up and Saying Goodbye

Waiting for the movers!

It's time to pack up! We've manged to give away most of what we don't want to take with us, and throw out the rest...except for one confusing incident with the couch.  Several people want it, but it's too big for their apartments.  So we end up having to trash it, because in Japan there's no place that accepts used furniture unless it's perfect (and someone was eating yellow curry and spilled it on the cushion, leaving a stain...).  We've talked with our apartment building about getting rid of it, because you have to pay a fee if the item is bigger than 30 cm.  We're told we can just put it in the waiting area by the service elevator, and they'll take care of it and send us the bill (like we've done previously).  Steve breaks it down to it's parts, so it's easier to move, and we think we're all set.  But then one of the managers comes to see us and says it's too big.  What?!?  We go back and forth about it a few times, then she asks if our movers can bring it to the trash area when they come the next day.  We never completely understand exactly what the issue is, but our movers take care of it for us.  And we pay the bill.

Steve's idea of what to do while the packers are in the apartment.

On moving day, Tie-Dye has one final visit with the kennel people and dogs, because we decide he'll be happier there rather than having to hide in the shower all day (that's the only place I can think of to keep him in our apartment).  I'm glad we do that, because we have five people show up to pack our stuff.  I frantically try to help label boxes, so hopefully I can find what I need when it all arrives.  I'm also double checking the room they've marked on the box, because the items in the den are going to four different rooms in the house.  By late afternoon, it's all finished.

First load, heading down to the truck.

It's empty!

We keep several items back (we plan to throw them out the day we leave) so we have a few kitchen items.  I had hidden away our original dollar store items, so we have one cup, two wine glasses, two plates, and two sets of silverware....plus a pot!  I had accidentally put it in the recycle area, because I wasn't planning to cook anymore, but then I remember I meant to keep it so we can boil water (the electric kettle was given away).  Luckily no one has picked it up, so I can still make instant coffee and eat Cup Noodles.  We also have a leaky air mattress and the comforter (despite our washings in the bath tub it will never be completely clean), so we have a place to sleep.  Normally people move to a hotel for the last few days, but again, with a large dog, it's easier just to stay in place.

Soaking in the view from our apartment balcony, one last time.

Tie-Dye comes home, after playing with his friends all day. 

Taking a break from fun and games for a treat.

Those party animals wear me out!

We're treated to some Sayonara parties so we can say goodbye to our friends.  Many of the people we've known have already moved away, but I have lunch with the remaining members of my quilt group - they're down to three with my departure (vs fifteen of us from last year).  We also have fun with our neighbors and the staff at our local bar, Bubbles.  Tie-Dye even gets to go to that one!  Unfortunately, we forget to take many photos, but we have wonderful memories.  Steve gives a speech thanking everyone and sharing how they've helped to make our time in Japan so wonderful.  It's not until tonight that I learn about tejime, the special clap you're supposed to do at the end of a talk.  Technically, it's supposed to mean the party's over, but we still continue on for a couple more hours.

Bubbles!  Don't you want to expand to the US?
I'm going to miss my fresh squeezed juice cocktails!

Now who will meet Jerry
when it's time to walk the dogs (and maybe
stop for a drink at Bubbles, too)?

Photobomb!

Quentin, Tie-Dye's late night walking buddy.

Yes, a wine bottle makes a good
microphone (in case you're
wondering).

"I'm exhausted from all this partying!"

Departure Preparations - Humans

W Cellar Restaurant- our best substitute for not having our own grill (plus we love watching them cook).

So we're down to the final couple of weeks we'll be in Tokyo. Now that Tie-Dye's arrangements are made (read about it here), we can relax and visit some of our favorite places one last time.

Two Rooms - not a wine dinner!

Naturally we go to our preferred restaurants, and say goodbye to the waiters we've frequently visited.  We even learn something new - some of our best wine dinners have been at Two Rooms Restaurant.  We can't make the one scheduled for October, so we eat there another night.  We discover they serve a chef's choice menu, with wines accompanying each course.  It's just as good as the winemaker's dinners have been.  What a shame we learn about it at the end of our stay.

Another place we frequent is the grilled clam restaurant, which opened a satellite site right across the street from our apartment building about a year ago (I'm not sure of the name - it's in Japanese).  The clams are fantastic - served three at a time per person, with a different topping each course (well, six different toppings - then they repeat).  They're all you can eat, i.e., they keep bringing them until you say stop, but you pay by the clam!  They also have a regular menu, which includes the BEST salad - fresh avocados and tomatoes in a carrot puree.  I'll have to try making this at home!

THE BEST SALAD!

My favorite topping - green onions and a butter sauce.

Our sushi restaurant (again, it's in Japanese, so we never learn the name), is located right beside the apartment building.  I don't think we'll be able to eat sashimi and nigiri this good back in the US.  I know we won't find it as close to our house!

Great chefs, and they always remember I don't like wasabi.

wine with a view

We're able to attend a couple of wine events before our departure.  In the last month we're here our apartment building begins tasting parties.  It doesn't get any better than that - no need to even think about transportation, just ride the elevator down nine floors.  We have a multi-course prosecco themed meal, and it's fun discovering the variety between the different sparkling wines.

The Tokyo American Club also has one of the Luciano Sandrone family members hosting a dinner, complete with their wonderful Piedmont wines.  Once again, Steve's excited we're seated at the same table as the winemaker.  But unfortunately, we can't buy any bottles because there's no way we can drink it before we move home.  We've been lucky because while in Tokyo many of the special events have been with wineries from the Piedmont region of Italy, one of our preferred regions.

Our last TAC wine dinner!

With Barbara Sandrone, daughter of the original
winemaker and the current manager of the winery.

It's not all eating out!  We have to empty the refrigerator...and the freezer, too!  My emergency stash of frozen homemade chicken soup is defrosted and eaten, and I think it helps to prevent me from getting sick as we run around taking care of all the moving details.

Mom's recipe - still the best!

We plan to be out most of one weekend, so we send Tie-Dye to the kennel so he can have one last celebration there, instead of sitting home alone and barking the entire time.  We go down to Yokohama to eat at the Cup Noodle Museum - it's still the best Tom Yum soup in the area.  We're planning to wander around eating street food in Chinatown afterwards, but it's pouring rain.  Instead we stop at the Red Brick Warehouse, a collection of little stores and restaurants.  I think most of the vendors are geared towards tourists (lots of gift shops) but it's still fun to explore.

Tom YUM is named appropriately!  Maybe I have two bowls...

Deja vu!

On our way back to Tokyo we stop at the Yebisu Brewery and Tasting Room.  I want to go because Yebisu is my favorite Japanese beer, and we've been to Asahi, Sapporo and Kirin while living here.  I thought we'd never been here before, but as we walk up to the facility both Steve and I recognize it - we came when we visited Tokyo in 2011.  (Side note - afterwards, I try to figure out what led us there.  We both recall "stumbling upon" a brewery in 2011, but we didn't remember it was Yebisu.  I look back at my notes and the guide book from that trip, and I can find nothing that has us in the Ebisu area, or directing us to the brewery.  Based on the pictures we took in the past, we're also at the Imperial Palace that same day, miles away.  Weird!)

I prefer the dark beer!

We each order the tasting sampler, which includes three beers and some snacks.  I love the mini beer glasses, and how they print their images and color coordinate with the beer flavors on the tray.

Love the extra space with these seats.

For one last time, we attend the movies in Japan.  I'm going to miss my pizza flavored french fries...but I look forward to going to a movie theater that sells candy when we return to the US. 


We have one more chance to play the Tokyo Underground Mystery!  Once again we discover new pockets of Tokyo, and explore subway stations we've never heard of in our two years here.  They're designing the game better, too - previously you might find part of a word, and figure out the subway station just from that, instead of solving the puzzle.  Now when you solve the puzzle you have something like, "Go to the station with 7 vowels in its name" instead of the specific subway stop.

Yes!  We get to solve mysteries one last time!

Taking a coffee break while
working on some of the puzzles.

One last Japan pose with the Underground Mystery mascot.

Mystery Selfie

We must be getting smarter....we're able to solve it in about five hours, our best time yet!  And we complete it all in one day, for the first time. (Part of the reason we have Tie-Dye at the kennel is because we don't know how long it will take us to figure it out.)  They've gotten much sneakier about clues, and at one point we have to play Subway Bingo (which we NEVER thought we'd do correctly the first time, but luckily we did) which is a little stressful, but entertaining, too. (I don't know what the other people on the subway thought about it...they probably didn't find it amusing.  We're the only ones playing the game in our subway car.) 

The final answer and message is very meaningful to us.  I won't give away any clues, but here's part of the passage.



















It's not all fun and games!  We start packing up our stuff and preparing for the movers.  Naturally I take care of the important stuff (fabric) and Steve takes apart some of the furniture so it's easier to ship.

Pretty Japan fabrics!

Such a handyman!

Tie-Dye is starting to worry he'll be left behind.  Don't worry - you're going, too (just not in a suitcase)!