Japanese Alps

The magnificent Japanese Alps!

We decide to run off for a long weekend to explore the central part of the country, the Japanese Alps.  The area encompasses several mountain ranges, and we stay in the Hida Mountains, which are over 10,000 feet high.  

Leaving Tokyo on the bus!

It's not easy to get there without a car (and some parts don't even open to traffic until mid-April).  Google gives us directions with three train transfers and then a bus, but I have the concierge call the hotel to see if there's a better way.  It turns out from Tokyo there's a bus that goes directly from Shinjuku Station to the Hirayu Onsen (town? stop? village?  I never find out exactly what area the name refers to.)  The only way I can make it appear on Google is if I specifically use Shinjuku Station as my departure point.  Even though it's a 4.5 hour bus trip, it's shorter than the multi-train & bus route that Google gave me previously, so I buy a ticket.

Steve has work in Osaka, so he's taking his own train and bus ride so we can meet up at the hotel.  Even though he's a lot closer to the resort town (as the crow flies), his trip takes an hour longer.  

How to make a 4.5 hour bus trim more fun!
(FYI - that's only a 6 oz bottle!)

I'm unsure about the lengthy bus route, because I've gotten used to riding trains, which allow you to get up and walk around.  They also have good size seats, large bathrooms, vending machines, and sometimes employees selling snacks and drinks.  I figure the bus will at least have a bathroom, and it does, but my misgivings about the seats turn out to be correct - they are very narrow.  Luckily, no one is beside me on the bus, so I'm pretty comfortable.  I also come prepared with snacks and goodies!  It turns out we take a 10 minute stop at a rest area every 90 minutes, so I never have to find out what condition the bus bathroom is in.

Am I on a bus or a DeLorean?

Riding into the mountains is like going back in time!  Sakura season is finished in Tokyo, but as we go into the higher elevations, I start seeing cherry trees in full bloom...and when we arrive in Hirayu, the trees haven't even begun blooming.

our private onsen and deck

We spend a couple of nights at Miyama Ouan, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn).  We book a room with our own private open air onsen (hot spring pool).  At our location the temperature has a high in the mid-40s and a low around 30, so the naturally heated mineral water feels wonderful.  There's a paper in the room listing all the "nutrients" that can be found in the springs, but it's in Japanese.  Luckily chemical symbols are universal, so we can figure out some of the minerals in there. 

Double decker bus gondala

Naturally, we want to be up close and personal to the mountains!  We have some nice views from our hotel and room, but we take (another) 30-minute bus ride and arrive at the Shin-hotaka Ropeway.  This double decker gondala takes you up over 3000 feet so you can be closer to the peaks.   It's faster than mountain climbing!  The entire site consists of two different ropeways to take you to the top, several restaurants, viewing platforms, and (of course) gift shops.

Japan?  Switzerland? Where am I?

We're lucky to have a clear day while we're there!  It's below freezing at the platform, at about 7000 ft.  There's less snow in one direction - I'm going to assume those mountain sides face south, but if you know how I am with directions you know not to trust me when I use words like north, west, etc. (or left turn, right turn...).  We're completely surrounded by peaks, and the ranges continue off into the distance.  It's breathtaking.  I wish I could take a 360 degree panorama. 

If the sides face south, does that mean I'm looking north?  Help!  I'm so confused.

If that mountain peak is 3000 feet higher than where we are, Steve must be pretty tall!

My turn with the mountain!

You knew a selfie was coming!

I miss my toys (sob)!

I think Steve misses his yard toys at home...he's ready to take the snow blower out for a spin! 









Back at the Hirayu Onsen bus station, I take a quick stroll around to see what's there.  It's similar to a large convenience store, with snacks, drinks and a few fresh items, but there's also large public bathrooms, places to sit, and a gift shop.  Japanese people often bring gifts home to the coworkers and neighbors when they travel, and it's very common to see a Japanese person walking to the cashier while holding 15 boxes of local specialties.  The boxes are always nicely wrapped and sometimes have accompanying gift bags.  We decide to try out the Hida Milk Cheese Roll.  It's kind of like a baked sponge cake rolled up with a cream cheese like filling (it didn't taste really cheesy - in fact, it was kind of bland.  If you added some jam or fruit in syrup to it, it would probably taste very good).

Not a gift - it's for us!

the cheese roll

I skipped the Kit Kat sake!

I see a few new things as I wander around.  Did you know Kit Kat makes sake?  Nope, me neither.


There's some different flavors of Kit Kat candy, too. This is the first time I've noticed apple or red bean sandwich flavors.

I skipped these, too!

You know what we don't see - an ATM!  I thought for sure there would be one here, but there isn't.  Google shows one at the post office (which is across the street) and they tell Steve there are no ATMs in town.  It's the same at the Ropeway, and that's a major tourist attraction (and they only accept cash - it's $30/person to ride roundtrip).  The Hirayu Onsen area is small, but it's not tiny - there's multiple hotels, restaurants, hot spring resorts, along with residences, but it's the first place I've been to in Japan with no trains, taxis, banks, ATM machines or convenience stores (7-11, etc).  I would classify this as rural!

We walk five minutes from the bus station to return to our hotel and quickly change into our provided yukatas.  One of the best parts about staying in a ryokan is getting to walk around everywhere in the light cotton kimonos, even to dinner!  We're also provided with a noragi, a traditional fisherman's jacket.  To reach the restaurant we have to walk along one hallway between two buildings, and it's not heated, so we need it! 

Steve's happy to grill again!

We have a multi course dinner, though the highlight is the main entree - cooking our food on the in-table grill.  The Hida area is known for it's dairy and beef, and we're able to enjoy both while staying at Miyama Ouan.

Cute dessert selection.  The treat on the far left is
wrapped in an (edible) cherry tree leaf.

Complementary Hida milk and coffee milk are provided from 3:00pm - 10:00pm.  It's meant to be drunk after you soak in the onsen.  We never have the rational explained to us.  I don't think the Japanese people feel that milk is part of breakfast.  (Side note:  I just saw an article from NBC News that recommends re-hydrating with milk after exercise.  A study in Canada found that it was superior to sports drinks or water for young children, because of the proteins, sugars and carbohydrates that are in milk.  Maybe our ryokan is on to something!)

Despite what the sign says I still
filch one for our room to mix with my
coffee in the morning.

Milk - it does a body good!

This resort serves a full Japanese breakfast in the morning.  We had similar items when we stayed at the B&B in Miyakajima, but many times at hotels like this they also offer a Western breakfast.  We try the different things, but it's really not to our taste.  And they only serve tea!  The following morning I'm prepared, and stop in the lounge to bring the complementary coffee with me.  I'm safe to do it - it's not against the rules!

My breakfast.  I'm glad I don't have to do the dishes!

Steve doesn't look very excited about his breakfast.

There's a 210 ft high waterfall nearby, Hirayu Otori.  We hike the 1.5 miles to reach it, though most of the time we're walking through the town.  It's near a ski resort that's closed down for the warmer months and the pathway to the foot of the falls hasn't been opened for the summer.  We're only allowed to go to the edge of the birch forest, but it still makes a pretty picture in the distance.  We're able to follow along the Otakigawa (I think that's it's name) waterway, which the Hirayu Otari flows into.

I should have made him strike a pose.

No one fell in taking this picture!  Another win!

Did you predict this selfie, too?