One Last Road Trip

Mt. Fuji from the shinkansen

We've gotten the word that we'll be moving back to the United States.  At the time of our return we'll have spent two years in Japan.  It's been a wonderful experience, but we miss home and we're looking forward to being around our family and friends again, along with the familiarity of being in the US.

Before we leave, we have time for one last road trip!  We want to visit Hiroshima and a nearby island, Miyajima.  The museum in Hiroshima is dedicated to memorializing the victims of the nuclear bombing and promoting peace.  I almost feel like it's a duty to go and understand what we're (humankind) capable of, to see the consequences of those decisions, and use it as a warning about directions to take in the future.  Around the time we're in Hiroshima, North Korea is testing missiles and nuclear bombs.  I don't think they've gotten the message.

the comfy chairs in the green car

The ride down on the shinkansen is a blast.  It's incredible - it goes up to 200 mph, but doesn't feel like you're moving.  I keep an open bottle of water on a small tray, without worrying about it spilling, even when we slow down for a stop.  The distance to Hiroshima from Tokyo is 500 miles and it's unbelievable we can be there in under 4 hours, with 8 stops along the way.  Part of the fun is being able to bring our own snacks and drinks!  We create our own picnic.

train version of a picnic

Panel explaining the bombing of Pearl Harbor.

After a quick taxi ride from Hiroshima Station, we arrive at the Peace Memorial Museum.  As we walk around listening to the audio guide, I notice about half the visitors are foreigners and half are Japanese.  The museum is enlightening, but doesn't really have any information you wouldn't easily find on Wikipedia.  There is one interesting electronic display that recreates how the city appeared before the bomb, then the explosion and how the hyperblast obliterated the city center.  I think the museum does a good job of communicating what happened (and sharing it's peaceful mission) without a lot of bias and emotional language.  (Side note: The museum actually acknowledges that Japan bombed Pearl Harbor to start the war, unlike the history (Edo-Tokyo) Museum in Tokyo.)  I find it fascinating that plants started growing back just a couple of months after the explosion - scientists had thought it would take decades before nature renewed itself.

After and before models of the Atomic Bomb Dome Building.

From the museum it's easy to walk out the back into the Peace Park. There are a couple of memorials here (Flame of Peace; Children's Peace Monument) but not much else.  I didn't see anyone using the park the way they might in other places - walking dogs, jogging, etc - it's pretty quiet, except for the tourists and a tour group. 

The Memorial Centograph framing the Peace Flame and the Atomic Bomb Dome in the background.

View of the Bomb Dome Building from a distance.

You can then walk over the bridge on the far north end of the park to see the Atomic Bomb Dome Building, originally named the Industrial Promotion Hall.  It's one of the few structures that's still standing at the hypercenter.  The impact blast was almost exactly above the building, so the thick outer walls and steel dome were not completely destroyed (though everyone inside died immediately).  As other partially destroyed buildings were pulled down and rebuilt, it was decided to leave the Atomic Bomb Dome to serve as a reminder of the suffering caused by nuclear weapons, in the hope of creating a ​lasting ​peace. The building is maintained to remain in the same state as it was after the bomb hit.

I still find cool quilting patterns in bridge designs!

Look closely - the gray dot on Itsukushima is where we are!

From Hiroshima we take the (regular) train down to Miyajimaguchi Station, so we can catch the ferry to our next location, Miyajima. The island is known for having one of the three most scenic spots in all of Japan - the "floating" torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine.  Both the gate and the shrine are built over water, so at high tide they appear to be floating. A torii has been standing there since ​1168​, and replaced as necessary. The current one has been standing there since 1875.  That's just amazing - over 140 years.

the tokonoma

We're picked up at the ferry station by our ryokan, Iwaso. We have a Japanese style room, and when we walk in we realize our previous ryokan rooms were Western-Japanese style. The only items are a low table with two chairs, and on the balcony is a small coffee table with two chairs - that's it, except for the tatami mats (though we do have a bathroom and toilet - but not all the rooms here have private ones; and a tv, but we never turn it on). There's no lamps or any other furniture, though there is a tokonoma (alcove)​ ​w​ith fresh flowers and a scroll. Steve is a little bummed, because he likes to stretch out on a couch. There's plenty of floor space for him, though!  I would have taken a picture, but it would be pretty boring.

Our yukatas and belts, nicely folded (you know
I never was able to fold the belt back that way).

Our momiji manu, with the tatami mat in the
background (because there's nothing else in the room)!

Once we settle in our room we're served iced tea and momiji manju.  Momiji manju is a cookie/cake with a soft filling, usually red bean. The ones in Hiroshima prefecture are in the shape of a maple leaf, and they're the specialty in the area. They're okay, but I wouldn't go of my way to eat them. (Side note: the next day we find some with other flavors, and I have a chocolate filled one. It's better - I'd be more likely to eat these!).

Not our favorite oysters, but they
get style points for presentation.

Steve goes down for a quick dip in the onsen while I finish unpacking. (There are no drawers to put anything!)  Then we have our kaiseki dinner served in our room. It's fun to relax in the privacy of the room, while wearing our yukatas (though Steve's legs have a hard time with sitting on the floor at our low table). Our server speaks English well, so that helps with understanding what we're eating. Oysters are the other specialty of the area, so we order two sets of 5 grilled oysters (NOT typical of Japanese - they would only order one set. She verifies​ with us three times that we want two orders​. That's only 10 oysters - I want to tell her in the US they're usually sold by the dozen). They're fine, but it'​s like they're missing something. We wonder if maybe they do​n't have as much salt in the water where they grow.

First course!

the dinner menu

Eel course

After dinner, while they set up the futons for sleeping in our room, we walk five minutes to see the torii gate illuminated at night.  It's pretty, but I don't know if I'd call it one of the most scenic sights in Japan - maybe I'd feel differently if I follow the Shinto religion. 

Is this really one of the top 3 scenic sites in Japan?

I try capturing the stone lanterns along the path beside the torii gate.

We come across about 20 - 25 people while we're out - the island is much quieter at night after the ferries stop running.  We change into "normal" clothes since we left the ryokan, but about half are wearing the yukatas from their hotels.  Only the locals and the people staying on the island are around, so it feels much more private.  We take a couple more photos as we wander back to our ryokan. 

The five story pagoda looks beautiful
lit up at night!

The illuminated garden at our ryokan is lovely, too.