Tunic Troubles Part 1

the infamous book

I'm a quilter, not a sewer.  But a series of events lead me to try to sew a shirt.  I've now determined three dimensional sewing (for the human body) is not as fun as two dimensional sewing (piecing or quilting).  I'm also amazed that I can even buy clothes that fit me, after all the adjustments I make to the pattern (though a couple of issues I found were problems with the pattern itself, not changes to make it fit better).

So my favorite style of top is a tunic. (As I'm working on my third version, my husband finally asks if this is a Japanese thing.  No, I tell him, it's just the kind of shirt I like - and I proceed to pull about 6 tunics out of my closet.)  In November 2016, The Tunic Bible by Sarah Gunn & Julie Starr was published.  I learn about the book through a quilter's blog I read, Leah Day.  She has a lot of experience with clothes sewing, too, but it doesn't sound too difficult when she makes it (famous last words).   I end up deciding to order the book, which my sister-in-law delivers to me when she visits over the holidays. 

After finishing Laurel's graduation quilt (you can read about it here) and getting up-to-date on my guild's current block of the month project, I decide to start working on making a tunic shirt.  Basically the book has one pattern, with many different neckline options, along with a few sleeve and hem variations.  Suggestions are also made on trims that could be applied to the fabric.  There are many pictures of the diverse creations that have been made using this pattern - it's a nice idea book!  However, it's extremely limited on directions and instructions (and from what I've read from some reviews, the pattern is limited too - it does not include any adjustments, nor does it have a lot of points for matching different fabric pieces).

Great instructor!

Once I realize it's not a pattern/book for a beginner, I go to my favorite source for learning new skills - Craftsy!  I have no affiliation with the company, but I wish I did - I think it's incredible (I feel the same way about craftsy.com as I did when the Kindle first came out - I'm the biggest cheerleader for both of them, and have sold many Kindles/Craftsy classes because of my enthusiasm...but to no benefit for me.)  So four Craftsy classes later (Fitting Solo: From Measurements to Muslin; 20 Things to Know Before You Sew; and my favorite two - 20 Things to Know Before You Sew and Learn to Sew a Shift Dress) I finally have enough knowledge (I think) to start working on the pattern.

This one taught me how to do the actual sewing of the garment.

As I begin tracing, I have some questions about the pattern pieces.  When you match the front and back facings, are they supposed to line up along the seam line?  Is the bottom hem supposed to match up on the front and back (because they don't)?  Is the front and back armscye symmetrical? (My classes have indicated that's not the case, but it looks like they are on this pattern.)  These are not easy questions to find answers through Google, and sometimes I'm too stubborn to ask anyone for help.

I follow the advice of the book and classes, and begin by making a muslin version of the shirt before using my "nice" fabric.  Once I've got everything marked and traced, I'm ready to begin sewing.  Step 1 - sew together at the shoulders.   Okay, easy enough.  Step two is the neckline, and there's actually a page that gives more instructions on how to do that.  Great!  (I choose to do the V-neck, because I like them and I think it might be easy - more famous last words.)  But I'm immediately stuck on the step - "With right sides together, sew V-neck Placket to Back Neck Facing at shoulder seams." Do I line up the cut edges of the pieces?  Or do I match up the seam lines?  Either way, I can't get a perfect match.  45 minutes on the computer, and I still can't get an answer, or find a picture that shows me how to position the pieces for sewing.  I do find two informative reviews on patternreview.com by wzrdreams.  She mentions several drafting errors on the pattern - and one of them involves the neckline/shoulder and another is specifically the v-neck.  So maybe I'm not completely losing my mind!

I'm still struggling with this on the third version I make (with my "nice" fabric) - see some of my ideas below:

Line up inside corner, but angled
so outside edges match?

Line up matching inside corner?

Try to match at the sewing line? (5/8" down, which I've marked with pencil)

(This is an earth shattering moment for me - you mean the pattern isn't perfect?  There can be mistakes?  After I've paid for a book and THEN I still have to buy fabric, thread, etc to even make a shirt?  Does anyone proof these things??)

What's wrong with this picture?

So I start by trying to figure out how other people solve the pattern mistake and V-neck, and what they mean when they say they "fill in" the neckline or refer to sleeve cap grading.  You can see further steps I took to analyze the neckline - here's the bodice front with the V-neck over it - are they supposed to match at the center fold?  Help!

I finally try to recreate the V-neck so it's wider at the top, to better match the back V-neck facing.  I don't actually know what I'm doing, so I just use trial and error (how do you actually draft these things, anyway?). You can also see that I don't have "official" pattern weights - but cans of tomatoes work well!

Also see my curved ruler (I don't think it's really a french curve) - it's all in Japanese and uses metric measurements.

I finally finish playing (playing seems to indicate it was fun, but it really wasn't) with the neckline, so then I'm able to start sleeves.  It's my first time making them, and I think I've decided setting them in is my least favorite part of the process.  

Look, an actual sleeve!

Not too bad for my first one...I think.

 As I work on my second muslin, I venture into trying side slits on the bodice.  I didn't really hit the mark with my sewing line. Why is it a circle on the pattern (not a small one, either - over 1/4" in diameter)?  Why don't they mark it with an X instead?  Or can you be off a bit and it doesn't matter?  -- just some of the questions I have in this one section.  (Every section is like this.)


After making two muslins, I decide I'm ready to try making a tunic with "real" fabric.  I've gotten smarter though!  My back is really hurting from bending over my dining table to trace pattern pieces.  I stop by the dollar stores (100 yen shops) to see if they sell risers - but they don't (I don't think they're really sold in Japan).  I do find wooden pencil boxes - so I decide to try them.  They work!

Table raised to drafting height - my back appreciates it!

Why is this happening?!?  It does not look pretty.

I go through the process of making the tunic, this time finishing the inside edges of the seams so they look "pretty."  I don't have a serger, so I plan to use the overcast feature on my machine.  But when I have only a single layer of fabric to finish (like when I press seams open) the fabric is drawn up and creates a tunnel in the middle of the thread.  I stop to research that, but I can't find a satisfactory answer online.  Later as I'm finishing the sleeve and bottom hems, I notice my machine is starting to skip on the straight stitches.  Argh!  What's wrong now?

Attempting to finish up the shirt

Color looks good, but not the pattern.

Once I finish the construction, I debate adding some ribbon to it.  I love the way this one matches the color, but the design just doesn't go with the tropical Hawaiian print on the fabric.  I decide not to attach it.



I'm excited to try it on!  Okay, it's not bad - I see a few things to fix, but I'd actually wear it in public. 

I made it!

But when I have Steve take pictures from the back, I see these wrinkles here.  What's causing that?!  Back to the computer for more research.  I think I have a sway back...but don't worry, there's an adjustment for that!  Back to the drawing board...

Why are there wrinkles??