Sights

You can tell we're in Alaska!

My cellphone rings (which is extremely rare, but especially since my Japanese phone is currently in the United States) at 1:30am (which also doesn't happen often, except for when I'm in Japan and someone mixes up the time difference).   So I know it's not something good when it wakes me up in the middle of the night.  It's the kennel owner, calling about Tie-Dye. I asked him to watch Tie-Dye's eyes because he's had two eye infections in the previous month, and he now has another one. He took him to the veterinarian, but he's concerned because his eye went from being fine to very bad in a short amount of time. He promises to keep me informed, but I start worrying about everything that could be wrong that would cause a reoccurring infection.

Yummy!

Mom makes me feel better by providing me with a stuffed artichoke, one of my favorite foods!  It's something else I haven't had in almost two years.  Turns out you can freeze them and they still taste good when you defrost them.

Homer Farmers Market

In the afternoon we pick up the frozen halibut from the processing plant, then visit the Homer Farmer's Market.  It's small (maybe 40-50 vendors) but has a nice variety of items.  There are handmade items (a couple of tied quilts vendors, jewelry, soaps, etc), several flower booths, a few prepared foods (including fresh oysters), and about 12 vegetable stands.  Of course, I find two different vendors with fresh dill, after I couldn't find it anywhere in the grocery store (and I broke down and spent $8 on dried dill).

I don't normally see shucked oysters at the farmers markets where I live!  We may have bought (and eaten) all the ones they currently had out.

That night Steve and I cook dinner on the grill for everyone.  We make our fresh halibut in a butter lemon sauce (with dried dill), corn on the cob, and zucchini from the farmers market.  It's great to have a meal cooked on the grill again.  Too bad everyone is busy eating; no one takes a picture.

The next morning when we wake up there's an email saying Tie-Dye's eye is doing better, but he still can't open it even halfway.  The kennel owner recommends we take him to an animal eye specialist when we return.  I didn't even know they had them! 

One of the hard parts about being in different time zones is the wait to hear about anything.  The business day in Japan is nighttime in the US, so if you send an email you can't expect to hear back the same "day" - it will be 24 hours for a reply to get to you (or you stay up very late and hope they reply as soon as they open for work - either way, you end up with a lot of nights of poor sleep when trying to coordinate something that is stressful). 

foxglove planted by the previous owners

We're able to work off some of the anxiety with the day's outing - a hiking/kayaking trip to the Halibut Cove area.  After a 30 minute boat ride from Homer Spit Steve and I meet up with our guide and four other people from Hideaway Cove Wilderness Lodge (there's a few cabins here, but we don't spend the night).  Our guide, Jordan, owns the lodge and land and stays there for most of the year with his family.  The previous owners had held the land under the Homestead Act, so it hasn't changed hands very often.

Halibut Cove

We hike up over a moderate mountain and across the forest and fields for about two hours to Glacier Lake, which is fed by Grewingk Glacier. It's a beautiful hike, and wonderful weather.

distant views

nearby views

With the signs, maybe I won't get lost (yeah, right - that's why I have a guide).

our kayak, once it's been inflated

However, as we reach the water the wind picks up.  We inflate our kayaks and prepare to go out, and the gusts are up to 12-15 mph (we see whitecaps).  To go across the lake we have to paddle directly into the gale (that's what it feels like) so it's a workout for about twenty minutes. Then we reach some rocks/islands that block some of the breeze for us and the next 20 minutes are easier.  Steve only bops me in the head a few times with his paddle. (On purpose??)  Because of the spray blowing off the waves and my paddle, we're both splashed a bit, but we have waders on with our raincoats (and sunglasses, so our eyes have protection) so we're not really wet.  It's also fresh water, so not as bad as salt! 

Ready to brave the icy water!

Glacier Lake....appropriately named!

We stop for a picnic lunch on one of the islands (leeward side) and enjoy the sunshine and blue skies.  Jordan has his dog along with us (he's a trooper, making the entire hike and riding in the front of a kayak - unfortunately, the camera is put away while we're in the water) and he takes a liking to Steve, trying to get him to chase him.

"Come play with me!"

He works, too - here he's helping to deflate
the kayak.  Or it just makes a nice dog bed.

It's an easy voyage back to the shore, since the wind pushes us along this time.  Since we manage NOT to capsize the kayak in the icy water, we consider the day a success.  We hike fifty minutes back to the shores of Halibut Cove (walking downhill makes it faster).  We relax for a few minutes, checking out the expensive yacht parked in the waters and watching the black bear frolicking along the shore (we're on a deck, so we're safe). Then our taxi boat appears, and we return to Homer.

What happens when your guide offers to take a picture for you - he takes a selfie of himself!

Mom cooks lasagna for dinner, since Steve asks about it earlier in the week. It's as delicious as ever! After trying some after dinner drinks/dessert, we're tired, and head back to our cabin to sleep. It's been a busy day!  Who cares if it's only 7:30pm? 

the picture our guide (finally) takes

Bears, Bears and More Bears!

Here fishy, fishy!

We're off to watch bears in the wild!  I've learned that observing animals in their natural habitat is very different than seeing them at a zoo, so I'm excited about this excursion.  Plus, the bears are still feeding on the salmon swimming upriver, so it will be fun to watch them doing their own fishing.

our plane

To reach Katmai National Park we fly on a small float plane (de Havilland Otter).  It's my first time on a small plane, with only ten seats, plus the pilot.  Steve manages (once again) to sit in front of me, in the copilot seat (after the woman sitting there realizes she's supposed to be on the other plane - there's no hesitation as Steve jumps to the seat as she disembarks).

Here are the six of us, before Steve moves to the copilot seat.

We taxi down to the end of the lake, and it's a a very smooth take off.  There's no wind, so I think that helps. The seats are like small canvas stadium chairs, very low to the floor.  Of course, there's no bathroom or service!  It takes us about 90 minutes for us to fly the 150 miles to the park.  I discover the plane window makes a nice frame for taking landscape pictures. 

Our landing location - you don't even realize you've
touched down it's so gentle.

Clearing the treetops

Katmai National Park was formed by a volcano eruption in 1912 (the biggest blast of the 1900s).  The area was designated as a national monument in 1918 after expeditions by National Geographic described the spectacular features of the "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" formed by 40 square miles of lava flows 100-700 feet deep. (It's not until the 1950s they discover Novarupta was the volcano that erupted, not Katmai.)  Currently the park encompasses almost 6400 square miles, about three times larger than at the original proclamation. 

Feed me!

We land at the Brooks Falls location and have a one minute walk to the park ranger building.  We haven't even had our bear orientation when one wanders by (everyone moves into the building). After our 20 minute briefing on how to act and what to do if we see a bear we're released into the wild.  (Do not run!  Make yourself appear bigger, and talk calmly.  Tell the bear how nice his fur looks, etc.  If the bear wants to walk along the path you're on, slowly move off of it, while still facing the bear.  Don't make eye contact.)
 
Next we go over to the lodge for lunch, which is a nice "make your own burrito" buffet.  There's even bowls of chili and nachos with guacamole, pico de gallo, and sour cream​.  It's all items we don't have regularly in Tokyo.  Yum! 

We've already seen some bears, but during the walk over to the lodge I appreciate evidence of them - there are definite trails in the grass and it's easy to see places they've laid down to sleep, right beside the walking path.  I could pass on the bear excrement though!

bear trail

bear bed

Bear lunchtime!

Then we're off to see the bears at Brooks River!  It's about a mile to the viewing stations, and for about half the distance we're on a narrow, 2-person wide path. We're supposed to talk and clap our hands so the bears know we're there. We don't end up running across any, but we talk with some people who had a bear "escort" them for a quarter mile along one of the paths earlier that morning.  


We go to the main Brooks Falls viewing platform, but it's currently full so we write our name down and the number in our party, and receive our pager (just like waiting for a table at a restaurant). Then we go to the secondary platform, about 100 yards downstream from the waterfall, and just a few feet from the edge of the river. There's up to six bears close to it providing lots of amusement, including one point when they have a little growling match over who has control over a specific spot.  We also watch a mother take care of her cubs, too.  Generally she watches over them for a couple of years, but after that she kicks them out to fend for themselves.

Remember to share with your brother!

After about 30 minutes, our pager buzzes and we walk to the main overlook, at the five foot high waterfall.  We have an hour here, so all the visitors can have a turn.  The bears make it easy to appear like a professional photographer - they give you many opportunities for memorable pictures.

Just missed it!

The entire time we're there we keep hoping the bear standing at the top of the falls will catch a fish (he catches two while we're at the other platform). But he never does, though he tries hard (that's him in the top picture, too). The bears just downstream of the waterfall seem to have more luck. We're about 10 feet above the ground and a few feet from the shoreline, so we have great views and are safe. 

Well, now you know the salmon are not dyed pink.

Can you find all the bears?  We see as many as six at one time, but there's only three in this picture.

Jump!  Jump!

The fish have a hard time jumping the falls (you try jumping 3 times your height!) and you feel bad for them, because the bear is just sitting at the top, waiting for them, or standing just downstream in case they miss and float back.  It's got to be tough to survive this long just to be eaten by a bear as you return home.

Safe on the platform!

After our hour on the platform it's time to head back for our plane. There's a bridge that we have to cross, but we're not allowed on it if there's a bear within 50 yards (you're supposed to stay 50 yards from a bear if you see them, but since they can cover that distance in 3 seconds, it doesn't really make me feel better). There's a mother and 2 cubs nearby, so we can't walk on the bridge for about 10 minutes (we're up on another platform, waiting). It's entertaining to watch the cubs, especially when they try to eat the fence!  They finally wander off, and we're able to cross over and make it back to our plane for the trip home.

"My turn to to bite the fence!"

Mom's in the water calling for them to get a move on!
They've held up the tourists long enough.

Luckily, the flight home also goes well (though everyone except me is feeling pain from the low seats. Sometimes it helps to be short!).

I'm in a different seat this time, but still able to take some scenic window photos.

Exterior photo of Fat Olives

Back in Homer we decide to eat dinner at a restaurant we keep driving past, Fat Olives. It's an Italian place and the interior looks completely different than the exterior (in a good way). ​They actually have their own wines produced for them from a winery in eastern Washington state, one of our favorite wine regions.  However, the red blend is good, but not great. The food is excellent, though!

One last bear photo...he never stopped trying to catch a fish!

Missed again!

Fishing

Nice views as you fish!

They're fishing on both sides of the river.

We take an hour drive to Soldatna so we can watch the last day of dip net salmon fishing (or as my parents call it, combat fishing, because they're standing shoulder to shoulder in the water).  We stop at several viewpoints overlooking the river and take a walk down onto the beach to get a close-up peek of the action.  The nets are huge, 3-4 feet in diameter.

We reach the beach just as one woman catches a salmon.  She's lived in Alaska for awhile, but this is her first season salmon fishing.  

Dinner!

As we watch the fishing, we also find time for some scenic photos, too!

One of my favorite photos

After lunch we stopped at a quilt store in Soldatna - Bearly Threaded Quilting Too.  There's a nice amount of fabric (about 3000 bolts) and patterns (not just quilt patterns but also lots of different types of bags/purses - and many of the bag patterns have completed items on display) but it doesn't have as many kits as The Quilted Raven in Anchorage. 

We find another quilt store - thank goodness,
because I've been suffering from withdrawal since
it's been two days since I've stopped at one!

Cute sign in the window - you can
buy your own version inside the store.

When we drive back to Homer we go down to the Spit, the main tourist area, to check out the gift shops, etc.  At an oyster bar we stop for a snack, but we have bad service so it isn't really pleasant.  So on our way home we stop at a Safeway and pick up a fresh pizza for Steve to cook on the grill and I get my favorite frozen "pasta veggies" for dinner - which I haven't eaten in almost two years. 

Finally cooking on the grill!

We take some Dramamine in preparation for our fishing trip tomorrow, but I stay up late enough to see the sun start to set and the moon come up.  It makes another pretty picture.
 

Maybe this one is my favorite...

The Dramamine knocks you out - we both sleep 9-10 hours. It's better than a sleeping pill!  When we finally wake up we go to my parents' trailer.  Each time we arrive their dogs act like it's been months since we've come over, even though we've now been here for several days.

Where's Tie-Dye to protect me??

heading out from the dock

After visiting for a bit we leave for our halibut fishing trip.  I'm the newbie - I've never been deep sea fishing before.  Luckily it's a beautiful, calm day, so there's no worries about seasickness.  We also have my parents' friend, Dennis, joining us.  Dennis and his wife Kathy also own a camper, and have spent the last few months "caravanning" around Alaska and Canada with my parents.

During the 90-minute trip to the fishing spot we entertain ourselves by taking photos.

Not a selfie

Mom and Dad

Trying to take a scenic shot with the fishing poles...

Dennis, Mom, and Dad all ready at their fishing poles!

Our captain finds a great spot - as soon as you set your line you have a bite.  Steve says it makes it more fun than when he did it six years ago.  At that time he participated in an excursion on our Alaskan cruise, and it took 5-10 minutes to get a bite.  Today, your arm gets tired since you're constantly reeling up a fish hundreds of feet.

The crew helps by baiting our hook (about a 4 inch piece of fish), pulling the fish on board and checking the length.  I'm glad when I reach my two fish limit - one is right at the small limit, 28 inches, and the other is a few inches longer.  I find it interesting that you have to catch a smaller fish.  Apparently they're worried about overfishing the larger ones. 

Mom and Steve trying to catch fish #2.

Since I finish first I help spell the other members of our group, to help reel in their fish.  You can catch and release if you want or if the size is wrong, so it's a good workout.  Everyone on board catches their two halibut maximum.  Steve has the best story though - one time he was pulling up his hook, and right as it reaches the surface we see two fish swim away.  One of the crew explains what happened - Steve had actually hooked a salmon, but a halibut was also caught in the line, so he was reeling in two fish.  At the surface, there was some slack, and both fish were able to get away.  Steve would have been able to keep the salmon if he'd brought it in (bonus fish!).

Dad with one of his fish.

Dennis' fish is fighting back!

They dress the fish for us while we motor back to the dock (removing the head, tail, guts, and slime).  Another interesting fact - they throw off the bigger fish carcasses, but keep the smaller ones (28 inches or less). They have to prove to the authorities we caught the smaller fish as one of our items. 

our (no longer secret) fishing spot

Halibut are heavy!

We bring the fillets and cheeks to a fish processing plant, that skins the fish (if you want), cuts it into 1 lb pieces (if you want), flash freezes and vacuum seals it (if you want). We take a few pounds with us so we can cook it (Steve wants to use the grill again!), but freeze the rest. 

The amount of fish pays for our trip!

For dinner we stop at McDonalds (not for fish like you might think) so I can have a cheeseburger "my way" versus "Japan way."  It's great, but I'm surprised to see a 30 cent surcharge for mayonnaise. They tell me it's been like that for at least 7 years. Maybe it's an Alaska thing?
 

Still the best way to eat a cheeseburger, even with the surcharge!