Saigon

Plane selfie!

Before Tahoe died, we had gone on another adventure -Vietnam and Cambodia!  Again, places that are much easier to visit from Tokyo than from the US.  Steve's able to get our visa through the embassy here, so no problems entering Vietnam.  For the first time, I arrange our travels through a company.  While reading up on Cambodia, I see that it's not recommended for you to wander off on your own, because there are still unexploded land mines around.  Hmmm....maybe I'll let the experts plan this one!  I find a company, Mango Cambodia, who organizes and customizes all our activities within the countries.  It's nice because it's still a private tour - no big buses for us!

Little did I know I would soon be on the back of one of these...

We have a guide and a driver meet us at the airport (my name on the sign again - yes!).  As we drive to the hotel our guide, Autumn, gives us some history and background on the city.  While riding in the car one of the first things I notice is that people drive on the right.  It's been awhile since we've been in a country where that's the standard.  I'm never going to look the correct way when crossing the street now!  The roads are crowded and the mopeds drive everywhere, just like in the other countries we've visited.  

Officially, it's Ho Chi Min City, but apparently no one says that - it's takes too long.  Everyone still calls it Saigon.  Even though it's a communist country, it feels like the capitalist spirit is alive and well!  One thing we're warned about is having our iPhones out in our hands - it's possible they will be stolen by someone on foot or on a moped (same thing with my purse - I was told to keep it across my body, not over the shoulder).  Luckily we have no problems with pickpockets the entire time we're in the countries.

Very common - lots of tall, narrow buildings together.

France had ruled Vietnam as a colony up until 1954, and you can still see evidence in some of the architecture.  While driving to our hotel we also see Christmas decorations for sale.  The juxtaposition of 90+ degree heat and snowmen feels very strange.

Can they even make snowmen here?

After our driver and tour guide help us to exchange cash (Vietnam has it's own currency, but in Saigon US dollars are also widely accepted) we have a chance to freshen up at our hotel before our first event - a food tour!  

Getting ready to head out!  Can you tell how tight I'm gripping the handles?!?

This ends up being one of our favorite evenings of the entire trip!  The name of the tour is "Back of the Bike" and I never really think about what it means (I'm so used to walking food tours or bicycle tours) until right before we meet our guides.  That's when I realize I'll probably be on one of those mopeds riding in the crazy streets.  I break out in a sweat, and I don't think I can blame the heat because we're sitting in our air conditioned hotel lobby.

snacking on green papaya salad

Our guides greet us and take us on a very long feeling 10 minute ride to the meeting point.  While we drive my guide is talking with me, and she's very nice, but I really want to ask her to just concentrate on the traffic.  We arrive safely, and get to sit and have our first meal - goi du du bo (green papaya salad).  It's very tasty.  We're also served beer - yes!  I needed it.  The rest of the night isn't quite as stressful, especially as I realize we have "support staff" who helps with the traffic as we ride.  Just like in the other countries, traffic laws are more of a suggestion, but drivers seem to be more courteous to each other.

The support staff takes pictures, too.

Each person on the tour has their own personal guide, but at our first stop all of them come over to say hello and introduce themselves.  Everyone speaks excellent English.  At all the locations they sit and talk with us - they don't go off and socialize among themselves.  The service is excellent and makes for an enjoyable evening. 

Now I'm sweating because of the heat.

Our next locale is another street food vendor - heo nuong (grilled pork skewers).  I get to help cook!  We sit in "kindergarten" chairs, a very common site as we drive through the streets.  The girls tell us that technically it's illegal for them to have seating at the food cart, so they have the little tables and chairs because they are easy to pick up quickly if the lookout says the police are on their way.

These small chairs are killing Steve's knees!  Luckily another beer helps.

Thankfully, he has help!

Steve has his own chance to cook!  We have banh xeo (crepe with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts).  Steve is smiling when he starts, but then it gets a little intense as he tries to keep track of all the sizzling pans.  He does a good job and they turn out well.







Afterwards, a beer helps relieve the stress of slaving over a hot stove!  They do actually have drinking laws in Vietnam.  You can drive with a beer can, but you cannot drive with a glass bottle of beer.  I think that sums it up!  My guide told me there is no drinking age and she first got drunk when she was eight because she thought vodka was water.  They're not drinking tonight, though - it's just for the guests.  Throughout the night we try three different types of Vietnamese beer.

We do eat in restaurants, too!  We have banh canh ghe (crab soup).  Just like everything else, it tastes wonderful.

playing with our food

I don't think we've got the rolling part correct...but it still tastes good!

At our second to last place we make our own Vietnamese spring rolls.  They politely have you sample all the different ingredients so you know which ones you prefer, which is nice because a lot of the herbs and greens are new to us.  We also have the option of fresh papaya juice or a coconut, in addition to the bottled water or beer.  Then the guides put forth a challenge - who wants to try an egg embryo?  I've seen enough Survivor episodes to know there's no way I want to eat it.  But Steve and a couple of the other guys decide to go for it.  After drinking the egg juice and taking a few bites, they all decide they've had enough.  Steve says it tastes like chicken.

He's not looking very enthusiastic...

Close up of the inside of the egg

I decide to have a coconut instead of an embryo.  I think I make the smarter choice!

Forgot to take a picture before we started!

Our final venue is where we have dessert.  There are fruits that aren't as common in the US, like dragon fruit (doesn't have a lot of flavor to me) and jackfruit (tastes a little like bubble gum).  The other dishes are similar to Japanese desserts - ice cream with sticky rice.  I'm surprised how good it tastes, especially with the fresh mango.

After four hours of eating our tour ends at 10pm and the guides offer to drop up off somewhere, but since we had gotten up at 3am local time we're ready to go back to the hotel.  Steve decides to visit the hotel spa for a massage, steam room and sauna but I'm too tired and plan to go tomorrow.  

Here's our entire group!  We all survive riding on the Back of the Bike (sigh of relief).

Một, hai, ba, yo!  (Vietnamese toast - 1, 2, 3, cheers!)