Saigon

Plane selfie!

Before Tahoe died, we had gone on another adventure -Vietnam and Cambodia!  Again, places that are much easier to visit from Tokyo than from the US.  Steve's able to get our visa through the embassy here, so no problems entering Vietnam.  For the first time, I arrange our travels through a company.  While reading up on Cambodia, I see that it's not recommended for you to wander off on your own, because there are still unexploded land mines around.  Hmmm....maybe I'll let the experts plan this one!  I find a company, Mango Cambodia, who organizes and customizes all our activities within the countries.  It's nice because it's still a private tour - no big buses for us!

Little did I know I would soon be on the back of one of these...

We have a guide and a driver meet us at the airport (my name on the sign again - yes!).  As we drive to the hotel our guide, Autumn, gives us some history and background on the city.  While riding in the car one of the first things I notice is that people drive on the right.  It's been awhile since we've been in a country where that's the standard.  I'm never going to look the correct way when crossing the street now!  The roads are crowded and the mopeds drive everywhere, just like in the other countries we've visited.  

Officially, it's Ho Chi Min City, but apparently no one says that - it's takes too long.  Everyone still calls it Saigon.  Even though it's a communist country, it feels like the capitalist spirit is alive and well!  One thing we're warned about is having our iPhones out in our hands - it's possible they will be stolen by someone on foot or on a moped (same thing with my purse - I was told to keep it across my body, not over the shoulder).  Luckily we have no problems with pickpockets the entire time we're in the countries.

Very common - lots of tall, narrow buildings together.

France had ruled Vietnam as a colony up until 1954, and you can still see evidence in some of the architecture.  While driving to our hotel we also see Christmas decorations for sale.  The juxtaposition of 90+ degree heat and snowmen feels very strange.

Can they even make snowmen here?

After our driver and tour guide help us to exchange cash (Vietnam has it's own currency, but in Saigon US dollars are also widely accepted) we have a chance to freshen up at our hotel before our first event - a food tour!  

Getting ready to head out!  Can you tell how tight I'm gripping the handles?!?

This ends up being one of our favorite evenings of the entire trip!  The name of the tour is "Back of the Bike" and I never really think about what it means (I'm so used to walking food tours or bicycle tours) until right before we meet our guides.  That's when I realize I'll probably be on one of those mopeds riding in the crazy streets.  I break out in a sweat, and I don't think I can blame the heat because we're sitting in our air conditioned hotel lobby.

snacking on green papaya salad

Our guides greet us and take us on a very long feeling 10 minute ride to the meeting point.  While we drive my guide is talking with me, and she's very nice, but I really want to ask her to just concentrate on the traffic.  We arrive safely, and get to sit and have our first meal - goi du du bo (green papaya salad).  It's very tasty.  We're also served beer - yes!  I needed it.  The rest of the night isn't quite as stressful, especially as I realize we have "support staff" who helps with the traffic as we ride.  Just like in the other countries, traffic laws are more of a suggestion, but drivers seem to be more courteous to each other.

The support staff takes pictures, too.

Each person on the tour has their own personal guide, but at our first stop all of them come over to say hello and introduce themselves.  Everyone speaks excellent English.  At all the locations they sit and talk with us - they don't go off and socialize among themselves.  The service is excellent and makes for an enjoyable evening. 

Now I'm sweating because of the heat.

Our next locale is another street food vendor - heo nuong (grilled pork skewers).  I get to help cook!  We sit in "kindergarten" chairs, a very common site as we drive through the streets.  The girls tell us that technically it's illegal for them to have seating at the food cart, so they have the little tables and chairs because they are easy to pick up quickly if the lookout says the police are on their way.

These small chairs are killing Steve's knees!  Luckily another beer helps.

Thankfully, he has help!

Steve has his own chance to cook!  We have banh xeo (crepe with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts).  Steve is smiling when he starts, but then it gets a little intense as he tries to keep track of all the sizzling pans.  He does a good job and they turn out well.







Afterwards, a beer helps relieve the stress of slaving over a hot stove!  They do actually have drinking laws in Vietnam.  You can drive with a beer can, but you cannot drive with a glass bottle of beer.  I think that sums it up!  My guide told me there is no drinking age and she first got drunk when she was eight because she thought vodka was water.  They're not drinking tonight, though - it's just for the guests.  Throughout the night we try three different types of Vietnamese beer.

We do eat in restaurants, too!  We have banh canh ghe (crab soup).  Just like everything else, it tastes wonderful.

playing with our food

I don't think we've got the rolling part correct...but it still tastes good!

At our second to last place we make our own Vietnamese spring rolls.  They politely have you sample all the different ingredients so you know which ones you prefer, which is nice because a lot of the herbs and greens are new to us.  We also have the option of fresh papaya juice or a coconut, in addition to the bottled water or beer.  Then the guides put forth a challenge - who wants to try an egg embryo?  I've seen enough Survivor episodes to know there's no way I want to eat it.  But Steve and a couple of the other guys decide to go for it.  After drinking the egg juice and taking a few bites, they all decide they've had enough.  Steve says it tastes like chicken.

He's not looking very enthusiastic...

Close up of the inside of the egg

I decide to have a coconut instead of an embryo.  I think I make the smarter choice!

Forgot to take a picture before we started!

Our final venue is where we have dessert.  There are fruits that aren't as common in the US, like dragon fruit (doesn't have a lot of flavor to me) and jackfruit (tastes a little like bubble gum).  The other dishes are similar to Japanese desserts - ice cream with sticky rice.  I'm surprised how good it tastes, especially with the fresh mango.

After four hours of eating our tour ends at 10pm and the guides offer to drop up off somewhere, but since we had gotten up at 3am local time we're ready to go back to the hotel.  Steve decides to visit the hotel spa for a massage, steam room and sauna but I'm too tired and plan to go tomorrow.  

Here's our entire group!  We all survive riding on the Back of the Bike (sigh of relief).

Một, hai, ba, yo!  (Vietnamese toast - 1, 2, 3, cheers!)

Setagaya Boro Ichi

Lots of antiques - darn it!  I just saw the blender in the picture.  I might have
bought it if I had noticed it at the market!  Electronics are expensive in Japan.

Some friends and I train out to the western part of Tokyo to visit the Setagaya Boro Ichi - a biannual antique/flea market that's been taking place in this location for over 400 years.  It's held on December 15 and 16 and January 15 and 16, no matter what days of the week they fall on.  It's also one of the largest events, with over 700 booths of stuff.

Lots of food choices

Our first stop is the food avenue.  Lots of different meals are freshly cooked at each tent.  I can't resist the sweet potato fries (with salt, though I could have had them with sugar).  Yum!  I love this about Tokyo festivals - you will always find lots of different street food.

Breakfast of champions!

The okonomiyaki (savory pancakes) look good, too - but I need two hands to eat them, making it difficult to eat as I walk and pull my cart, so I decide to pass.

Maybe a snack for later!

The market is very crowded, though it seems to come in waves.  Sometimes you're shoulder to shoulder across the entire street, then you have a lull. 

At least all the people help to keep you warm.

I know I might be in trouble when one of the first vendors has precut fabric and some obi (obis - plural form??) for sale.  I get away with just buying some of the precuts, but I can't resist at some of the other booths.  The second-hand kimonos and obis are much less expensive then buying them new at the store.  I'm not sure what I'll do with them at this time.  An obi makes a nice table runner or wall hanging.  They can also be easily cut up for placemats.  Of course, they can always be used for quilts!  I'm sure I'll figure out something by the time I'm back to the US.

Used kimonos for sale

Precut fabric, obis and some cute little kits, too

Sometimes it's all piled together...

Sometimes you can tell it's people selling their own family belongings, and other times it's professionals selling objects they've purchased at auction or estate sales.  My friends recognize certain shop owners from other antique/flea markets.  

There's lots of kitchen supplies for sale.  I almost regret that I'm not an "antique" person - you can find all sorts of cool Japanese kitchenware here.

...other times it's more organized.

Molds for making Japanese sweets.  I had no idea these existed.

I also find some neat fabric paraphernalia!  The stiff paper stencils (3 layers of washi paper glued together with persimmon juice) are cut by hand, then used to print on kimonos.  Framed, they might make a pretty piece of art. 

One of the katagami for sale

LOVE the sign in English!

There are a few tents with people displaying items they have made - knitted gear, paintings, and wooden carvings...

These are shinto shrines, but do you think the gods
would be upset if you used it as a dollhouse?

...and a few with plants and fruit.

Lots of citrus this time of year - 
you can even buy the tree.

Very cute!  I'd buy one if I could take it
home to the US.

The police are able to keep an eye on everything, with their raised platform.  I've seen them around, on the ground, but this is the first time I've seen them lifted up in the air.  There are manned police stations on practically every block in Tokyo.  It's one part of what keeps the crime so low here.

Keeping everyone safe and sound.

On my way out of the market I see a woman serving mulled wine.  What a perfect way to warm up at the end of several hours outdoors!

I should have asked for her recipe!

At home I'm able to take pictures of some of my purchases.  Here's the backs of two kimonos, bought for completely opposite reasons!  I chose the cherry blossom pattern  because it's such a traditional type of Japanese design.  The green flower (peony?  I have to look that up) kimono has a beautiful traditional background print (zoom in to see it) but the colors and the way the flowers are on the kimono are unlike any that I've seen.  The picture makes the kimono look like it's white, but it's really a pale lime color, and the flowers are shades of green and aqua.  I didn't even notice the gold embroidery until I got home.  Both kimonos have obvious spots on them (I've been told they won't come out) and are probably rayon, not silk (I need to check that, too) but they were only $10 each, so I'm not complaining.  I'm not sure what I'll do with these, yet.

traditional

non-traditional (and a little wrinkly)

Maybe I can put this one out in autumn.

Here are my obis!  I heard the ones with pictures of people and landscapes are worth more, but I prefer the ones with geometric designs.  Luckily I don't have to worry if a Japanese person and I are shopping at the same booth - we tend to like different kinds so we don't reach for the same ones. 

Do you see the little bit of green and pink thread design?  Hint - look to the bottom left.

Tahoe

The toy makes a nice pillow...and Tie-Dye can't steal it!

Tahoe, "the prettiest girl in the whole world," our little sock thief, has been diagnosed with lymphatic cancer, among some other issues.  To save her from pain and suffering, we make the difficult decision to put her to sleep.  We're heartbroken, both for ourselves and for Tie-Dye, who has never been without his big sister.

What a cute puppy!  The picture is from the day she was adopted.

I promise I won't scratch the leather with my claws.

This is the way she convinced us she should be allowed on the couch.  She would jump on it and immediately curl up in a little ball.  I would make her get off, and then she would repeat.  It was adorable - and convinced us to break our rule.

 Of course, being allowed on the bed wasn't far behind.

Tug of war!

A couple of years later, we get Tie-Dye.  We always wonder if she was happier as an "only" dog, but they have lots of fun together.

Wrestling is a great pastime - especially when she outweighs Tie-Dye.  That didn't last for long!

"holding" hands

They do have sweet moments together...

In the US she loved her hikes in the woods.  Cooling off in the creek helped on hot days.  In Japan she loves to go running with Steve.

I don't know if the water actually tastes very good, but Tahoe doesn't seem to mind.

Her favorite types of petting are belly rubs and neck massages.  Steve is always happy to oblige!


She also loves snow, and was happy to jump after snowballs (and Frisbees, too).  I don't think she ever understood why the snowball disintegrated when she caught it. 

Awesome catch!

Her favorite toy is Ducky.

She loves going to the kennel, too.  She would see me getting the bag together with their food and beds, and start to do her "happy cry."

Lots of dogs to play with at kennel "camp!"

Look at that jumping talent!

It's hard to take a picture and hold two leashes.

She is the "mascot" of our local neighborhood bar, Bubbles.  Each night Tahoe and Tie-Dye stop by and do tricks for treats.  Everyone loves coming out to pet her.

Helping Dad and me cheer on the Vols!

Of course, she's my fellow Tennessee football fan!  She sits on the couch and watches the game with me.


We will miss her so very much!

The sock thief - caught in the act!