Kyoto - The End

It's hard to eat without splashing syrup on you!

After spending the long weekend running around Kyoto, we have a few hours left before our train departs.  We've had our fill of temples and shrines, so we decide to stop in at Kagizen Cafe, a dessert cafe recommended to us by a friend. We're told to try kuzukiri with brown syrup sauce (molasses).  It's a gelatinous noodle, served cold, that you dip in the syrup and slurp up.  It's tasty - I can see people liking it on a hot day.  But for dessert I'm more of a cake person and Steve is more of an ice cream person.  I wouldn't mind having it again, but I probably wouldn't search it out.  I'm glad to have tried it, though!

The "noodles" are in icy cold water.

We do get in some shopping.  Stopping by the Kyoto Handicraft Center we both bought items with bamboo designs - mine on earrings, Steve's on cufflinks.  Yesterday, while riding in a taxi, we passed the Kyoto Ceramic Arts Association and could see lots of pottery in the window.  So we stop by there, and they have beautiful, expensive items.  I like a coffee mug, but it's around $65.  I don't like it that much!  

Last we stop in at the Nishijin Textile Center.  We come in just as the kimono show ends.  I'm disappointed to miss it, and the next one is too late for us to attend.  I do have a lot of fun looking at all the fabric items, though they have just a small exhibit.  The (large) gift shop area is pretty crowded at first, and I think there are a group of quilters visiting here.  I'm tempted by some purses, but decided not to get one at this time.  Steve is able to occupy himself by trying to figure out how the weaving loom works.  I join him and he explains it to me, and the weaver is able to communicate with us that she's actually creating the fabric upside down - the backside is what's facing her.  She uses a mirror to make sure the front is correct.  You can just see the mirror in the picture below - the fabric is dark brown with mainly gold designs.

The backside of the fabric is by her forearms.  Below that is the mirror showing the front of the fabric.

It took me awhile, but I finally realize what bothers me about Kyoto.  You always hear about how beautiful it is, but it's really just a city - you could be anywhere.  In downtown Paris, you feel like you're in Paris - yes, there are modern facilities, but there's many large stone buildings with the traditional French architecture.  Or if you go to an English village - it has it's own unique structures. I realize I expected Kyoto to be like that - I thought the buildings would be in traditional Japanese style, but the city itself was just your typical city buildings.  Not quite as high as Tokyo though - usually they maxed out at 5-6 stories.

It's around the city that has the beauty.  Kyoto is in a valley surrounded on three sides by mountains covered with forests.  The temples and shrines have gorgeous grounds, and you're able to hike and be surrounded by nature.  I realize Tokyo has lots of parks and gardens, but no true forests.  So maybe that's why everyone describes Kyoto as beautiful.

My other problem with Kyoto is that it's not easy to get around and see the sites.  They're all spread out - many people may not get this reference, but it's like visiting quilt stores in Atlanta - you have to drive in a giant circle around the city to go to them all, because they're in the suburbs.  The major sites are like that in Kyoto, and it's a 30 minute drive to get from one part of the city to the other, if traffic isn't bad.  Unfortunately the subways aren't set up well for the temples, either - you usually have a 15-20 minute walk (mostly uphill!) from the closest station.  The buses may do a better job, but you still have to deal with the traffic, and they take a long time, so you spend a lot of your vacation time on a bus, looking at what could be any city.  That's why we opted for taxis (at least they're cheaper than they are in Tokyo!).

We do get to see the reputable Japanese honesty in action.  An hour after we returned home, I realize I left the iPad on the shinkansen.  We call the train company, but cleaning crews haven't been through the cars yet so nothing has been turned in.  They say to call back tomorrow.  I can tell from "Find my iPad" that it hasn't been connected to wifi, so I'm feeling hopeful.  Sure enough, when we call back the iPad has been turned in and is even waiting for us at Tokyo Station.  Big sigh of relief!