Kuramae Tour

I go on a tour of the Kuramae area, led by Kit.  She's full of information about the area and the shops.  Kura means "storage house," and this spot along the Sumida River used to hold rice before being shipped out.  Over time it has morphed to an area that encourages multi-generational craftsmen to set up shop.

Kakimoki store front

My custom notebook & Japan pen

Our first shop is Kakimoki, a specialist stationary shop.  It's run by the third generation of the family, though they just moved to this spot around six years ago.  We get to create our own custom notebooks - we choose everything from the type of paper we want inside, inserts, the covers, the color and type of spiral binding, and the type/color/style of clasp.  My husband has gotten me away from writing on paper (electronics!) but it's still fun and I'm sure I'll come up with something worthwhile for it.  They also have gorgeous pens and inks - in fact, just down the block they have their own ink blending shop.  I end up giving in to temptation and buy a beautifully-writing ball point pen that is made in Japan.  Only $10 (and one of the least expensive ones they have)!  If you like calligraphy, this is the store for you!

Next we stop in Maito Design Works, where Maito (did you figure out where the name of the store comes from?) sells items using the traditional kusakizome (natural) dyeing technique.  Everything is dyed using natural materials, such as liquids extracted from flowers, leaves, roots...and bugs!  (Side note - I knew the cochineal bugs formed a red dye, because I had read they are used to give strawberry yogurt its coloring.  I don't think my tour group appreciated it when I shared this information.)

I believe this is bug larve.  I forget what color it makes.

He is kind enough to show off some of the items he is currently extracting dye from.  My favorite is the cherry blossom branches.  It produces a yellow to orange to pink dye.  The first color to come out of the branches is yellow, but he doesn't usually want that, so he dumps the first few batches.  It takes a few weeks for the pink dye to be "harvested."  He also tells us he has to get the branches before the buds start to form, or the color goes to the flowers.  He prefers to pick up branches he finds on the ground because he doesn't like to cut them off the live trees.  He said the bucket above will create enough to dye 3-4 items. 

turmeric

I forgot what this was (originally), but it's a pretty dye color.

Another question a group member asked was how the dye industry had changed since his family first started to dye.  He is a second generation dyer, but his family were weavers for the previous 10 generations.  Originally, the thread was dyed and then it was woven, and it was only more recently that fabric bolts were dyed themselves.  Otherwise, the natural dying technique has stayed the same.

This is the ash he uses to set the dye in the fabric, so it won't wash out.

 Most of the items in his shop are scarves, cardigans, and some knit items.  The colors are lovely (I didn't feel right taking a picture of the merchandise).  I only wear scarves when I'm cold (which isn't very often) otherwise I would have purchased one of the beautiful $100-200 silk scarves.

We then wander on to some leather shops.  At M+ I'm tempted by some masculine looking business card holders - Steve could probably use one, and I've been looking for something to store my (growing) pile of cards.  I've marked this store as worth a return trip.

At Ren, they have some nice purses, but the leather is too soft for me - it would be scuffed and scratched before I walked out the door.  They also have some pretty spring colors with a baby blue, spring green, and a nice light sand color.

We then stop at lunch Cielo y Rio.  As we walk past the tables everyone's meals look tasty, but we've had a large salad pre-ordered for us.  It's good.  We also salivate over the dessert selection, but we don't have time for it.  I've made a note so I can return to this restaurant, too.

I think Kit feels bad about us not getting dessert, so we stop at Dandelion Chocolate.  For some reason I decide not to get anything - I was full from lunch?  My brain was temporarily taken over by aliens?  Anyway, they are a coffee bar and have some baked chocolate snacks (not candy).  I didn't want to carry it??  Really, I can't figure out why I didn't get something to bring home.  When looking up the store information, I discover Dandelion Chocolate is based in San Francisco.


Our last stop was to a basket shop.  Some of the items are mass produced (and very low in price) but they did have some hand woven purses available.  Of course, I look at the weaving patterns and think "quilting designs!"