A Quilt Finish

I said I would have some quilting stories when I started the blog, and you might've thought I forgot all about it.  But that didn't happen!  It just took awhile for our shipment (with sewing machines) to arrive, and once it did I had to get started right away on a bed-size quilt, so it took some time to finish.  Plus I wanted to wait until she received it!

I love seeing the fabric all cut and ready to be sewn!

My niece graduated high school this summer, and I offered to make her a quilt to celebrate her achievement.  She said she wanted one, so I gave her a bunch of patterns to pick from and she chose Horizon Charm by Cynthia Muir (Modern Quilts Winter 2015).  Then we went off to Home Depot to look at paint samples.  That seems to be the best way to determine the colors to use.  Her interpretation of aqua may be different from mine, so this way we're on the same page about the colors she likes.  Before we moved to Japan I was able to go through my stash and pull out the colors she had picked. (I have a decent-size stash, though I know people with more!)  The only thing I had to purchase was the backing - I even had the 3 1/2 yards of white fabric that I needed!  Everything got packed up, and I was happy when it arrived in Tokyo in January so I could get started on her quilt.

Why won't the salmon work??

Working with the colors she picked, I cut up the fabrics and was all set to start arranging them on my design wall.  I thought I'd focus on the blue and green colors, and add some salmon and yellow as accents.  But it wasn't working.  I decided I had to pull all of the yellow and maybe include just a touch of pale salmon to get some contrast.  I still wasn't happy, so I pulled out the salmon and used just the blue and green. 

Hmmm.....

I left it up for a day,  thinking I'd like it, but I still felt it was muddy.  So I pulled out my color wheel and looked over the colors.  I actually had seven different "colors" currently on the quilt, so I pulled the most blue and most green ones off the wall so I was down to five (green, blue-green, aqua-green, aqua blue, turquoise).  Suddenly it looked much better!  And it was a  lot easier to place the fabrics beside each other - they all seemed to work well together.  So I ended up with an analogous color scheme.

Next I just had to focus on value - I wanted some contrast between each rectangle so they would look distinct and not run together. I also wanted to make sure I didn't have large patches of dark and/or light clustered in one spot.  My favorite tool is the black & white feature on my camera phone.  It's the easiest way to determine value! 

Black and white - see the contrast?

In color - the value contrast can be harder to see.

The blue painter's tape helps when it extends past the flannel design wall.

Figuring out the colors and placement was the longest part of the process!  Once that was finished, sewing went quickly (well, except for the one mistake where I had to rip out several hours worth of work...).  It's just rectangles, so no tricky piecing.  I had to put the quilt together in quarters, which made it a little easier since my design wall couldn't fit the entire quilt.  I did have to try and put the parts up so I make sure I wasn't putting the same material next to each other when the quarters were sewn together.  I thought I did well when I checked for this, but as I was finishing the quilting I found the same two fabrics almost side by side.  Too late to fix at that point!

Comparing the four quarters before sewing the top together.  Last chance for changes!

Ugh!  How many more hours of this?!?

Once the top was finished, my least favorite portion of the quilting process - clipping threads off the back.  There are 1 1/4" strips of white between the rows, and I definitely didn't want any shadow threads showing through.  Luckily I can raise my ironing board up so it's not as difficult on my back.  Eight hours later (and many episodes of Alias - the show I binge-watched while working on the quilt) that part was completed.

The quilting was pretty simple - I stitched in the ditch for the entire quilt using a light green thread.  I made sure to add her name, so there's no question regarding who owns the quilt!  I learned this technique from a Craftsy class, Creative Quilting with Your Walking Foot.  

The light green thread appears more gray with the green background.  I wish I had changed thread colors for her name.

My tall husband is always my "quilt hanger," so I can get a full size photo. 

The finished quilt!

I also like to make a coordinating pillowcase (and it makes a nice "bag" for the quilt when giving as a gift).  Her favorite color is a blue-green, so I made sure to use that as the backing and in the pillowcase.

I love these colors, too - do you think she would mind if I make another for myself?

Luckily, at the end of her visit, my sister was able to take the finished quilt with her to mail from the US.  It was $85-150 to mail from Japan!  Eek!

And here's a picture of the graduate with her quilt! 

Congratulations, Alaina!

Kyoto - The End

It's hard to eat without splashing syrup on you!

After spending the long weekend running around Kyoto, we have a few hours left before our train departs.  We've had our fill of temples and shrines, so we decide to stop in at Kagizen Cafe, a dessert cafe recommended to us by a friend. We're told to try kuzukiri with brown syrup sauce (molasses).  It's a gelatinous noodle, served cold, that you dip in the syrup and slurp up.  It's tasty - I can see people liking it on a hot day.  But for dessert I'm more of a cake person and Steve is more of an ice cream person.  I wouldn't mind having it again, but I probably wouldn't search it out.  I'm glad to have tried it, though!

The "noodles" are in icy cold water.

We do get in some shopping.  Stopping by the Kyoto Handicraft Center we both bought items with bamboo designs - mine on earrings, Steve's on cufflinks.  Yesterday, while riding in a taxi, we passed the Kyoto Ceramic Arts Association and could see lots of pottery in the window.  So we stop by there, and they have beautiful, expensive items.  I like a coffee mug, but it's around $65.  I don't like it that much!  

Last we stop in at the Nishijin Textile Center.  We come in just as the kimono show ends.  I'm disappointed to miss it, and the next one is too late for us to attend.  I do have a lot of fun looking at all the fabric items, though they have just a small exhibit.  The (large) gift shop area is pretty crowded at first, and I think there are a group of quilters visiting here.  I'm tempted by some purses, but decided not to get one at this time.  Steve is able to occupy himself by trying to figure out how the weaving loom works.  I join him and he explains it to me, and the weaver is able to communicate with us that she's actually creating the fabric upside down - the backside is what's facing her.  She uses a mirror to make sure the front is correct.  You can just see the mirror in the picture below - the fabric is dark brown with mainly gold designs.

The backside of the fabric is by her forearms.  Below that is the mirror showing the front of the fabric.

It took me awhile, but I finally realize what bothers me about Kyoto.  You always hear about how beautiful it is, but it's really just a city - you could be anywhere.  In downtown Paris, you feel like you're in Paris - yes, there are modern facilities, but there's many large stone buildings with the traditional French architecture.  Or if you go to an English village - it has it's own unique structures. I realize I expected Kyoto to be like that - I thought the buildings would be in traditional Japanese style, but the city itself was just your typical city buildings.  Not quite as high as Tokyo though - usually they maxed out at 5-6 stories.

It's around the city that has the beauty.  Kyoto is in a valley surrounded on three sides by mountains covered with forests.  The temples and shrines have gorgeous grounds, and you're able to hike and be surrounded by nature.  I realize Tokyo has lots of parks and gardens, but no true forests.  So maybe that's why everyone describes Kyoto as beautiful.

My other problem with Kyoto is that it's not easy to get around and see the sites.  They're all spread out - many people may not get this reference, but it's like visiting quilt stores in Atlanta - you have to drive in a giant circle around the city to go to them all, because they're in the suburbs.  The major sites are like that in Kyoto, and it's a 30 minute drive to get from one part of the city to the other, if traffic isn't bad.  Unfortunately the subways aren't set up well for the temples, either - you usually have a 15-20 minute walk (mostly uphill!) from the closest station.  The buses may do a better job, but you still have to deal with the traffic, and they take a long time, so you spend a lot of your vacation time on a bus, looking at what could be any city.  That's why we opted for taxis (at least they're cheaper than they are in Tokyo!).

We do get to see the reputable Japanese honesty in action.  An hour after we returned home, I realize I left the iPad on the shinkansen.  We call the train company, but cleaning crews haven't been through the cars yet so nothing has been turned in.  They say to call back tomorrow.  I can tell from "Find my iPad" that it hasn't been connected to wifi, so I'm feeling hopeful.  Sure enough, when we call back the iPad has been turned in and is even waiting for us at Tokyo Station.  Big sigh of relief!

Kyoto - Geishas and Foxes

The theater lobby - see the lanterns with the plover bird, their symbol.

After our bike tour, we're off to see a geiko (geisha) performance!  A real one, not the fake ones that tourists normally see.  Twice a year each geiko group has a performance with tickets available to the public.  The Ponto-cho is considered one of the more exclusive geiko organzations (Gion is supposed to be the most exclusive) and they have performances for three weeks in May.  We feel lucky we're able to get tickets.  No pictures are allowed during the show, but I do get a photo of the curtain before it starts.  See the plover birds?  Their symbol is worked into everything.

I'm getting some quilting ideas...

And true confessions - we did not enjoy the show.  Other people in the audience did, though - I think behind us was the family of one of the performers.  Visually it was beautiful, with the elaborate kimonos and costumes.  But I had thought it was a dance (that's how it is always described) but it was like two different short plays, followed by a brief dance performance.  

The musical instruments and singing were unlike anything I'd heard before - I can only describe it as a lot of pinging (is that a word?).  The characters in the plays always had a whiny tone to their voices, which I found annoying.  I couldn't follow the plot of the first play at all - every time I thought I knew what was happening, the next scene would completely change the story.  The dancing is always described as elegant, but in my opinion, a ballet shows more grace.  So, we looked at it as a chance to cool off during the 90 minutes of sitting in air conditioning, and Steve had a little nap during the show. (I was happy to let him sleep as long as he didn't snore!)  I no longer feel like we have to see a kabuki or noh theater performance, since we obviously can't appreciate these cultural acts.

The next morning we have one more shrine to visit while we're in Kyoto - Fushimi Inari Shrine.  It's one of the highlights here, so I follow my usual policy of getting there early to beat the crowds.  We also need to balance having to check out at our hotel, but I figure if we're at the shrine by 8:30 am, we'll have time to hike to the observation plateau, come back down, return to the hotel and shower, before we have to check out at 11:00 am.







This shrine is best known for the thousands of torii gates lining the trails into the wooded forest of sacred Mount Inari.  It's considered the most important of the thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice.  Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds.  I don't know the exact date it was built, but it was before 800 AD.  (Thanks to www.japan-guide.com for the info.)  The torii gates are donated by individuals and corporations, so it's possible I could put one up!  Prices range from about $4000 - $10,000 a gate.  Most are located at the lower portions of the path, they thin out a bit as you get closer to the top. 

Something about the torii gates encourage selfies!

Awesome!  Person free torii picture!

See the babbling brook?

It takes about two-three hours to hike to the top and back, but since we're short on time we decide to go to the Yotsutsuji intersection located about halfway up the mountain.  It takes us about 35 minutes, and it's uphill the entire way, sometimes with stairs.  There are some pretty views along the way, through the torii gates.

There are also different areas set up for praying along the path.

Inari fox!

Another selfie!

 

 


We finally reach the intersection and are treated to views of Kyoto. 

Kyoto....again?!?

On our way down I see the way the light is hitting the torii gates.  They seem to glow like embers.  I don't think the photo quite captures the beauty.

The path splits on the way down, and Steve decides we should take the opposite path (for some reason he doesn't consult me on directions...).  We don't have all the torii gates, but we view lots more sanctuaries.

mid-leap inari

hungry inari

I think this statue deals with childbirth.

He just looks really cool.

 





So this was nice - we actually had an explanation in English at one of the shrines.


















When we reach the main entrance, close to 10:00 am, it's packed.  The tour buses have obviously been arriving.  We're able to grab a taxi and go back to our hotel, shower, and check out on time.  We still have a few hours before our train, so now what will we do?

Kyoto - Bike Tour

It's a great day for a bike ride!

After being on our feet all day yesterday, Saturday morning we're looking forward to our Backstreet Bike tour.  Unlike other bike tours we've been on, this one's private.  Our guide speaks English well and is able to answer lots of questions and is very informative.

I also learn you're supposed to use arm signals when riding the bike.  I have yet to see a single rider do that in Tokyo, but I notice other bikers in Kyoto signaling, too. 

I would get lost in this intersection!

Shibuya's not the only place with a crazy 5- or 6-way crossings at a single intersection.  Kyoto has them too.  And we're supposed to walk our bikes, not ride them, because it's so busy.  Hmmm, I wonder if you're supposed to do that in Tokyo, too.....

Another temple?  Really?

We take a quick look at Higashi Honganji Temple.  It's the largest wooden structure in Kyoto and one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.  Traditional Japanese beliefs say that evil spirits come from the northeast, so lots of temples have that corner "cut off."  I guess it makes it easier to protect against the spirits.

missing northeast corner

We cross the Kamo River several times.  It's before the rainy season, so the water level is low.  Lines are draped above the river to prevent birds from diving in to eat all the fish.  The yuka, or outdoor decks, are built by restaurants for the summertime.  Eating outdoors by the river helps to make the humidity not seem as bad.  Maybe that's the case in the evening, but now it's sunny, in the 80s, and there's no shade.  I would find it very uncomfortable.

The geiko names are "behind" the lantern.

We visit Gion, the most famous geisha district.  In Kyoto, they prefer to be called geiko (it translates as "arts child" versus geisha, which means "arts person").  There are five different geiko groups, and maybe 100 geikos total in Kyoto.  They live in houses together, and the house mother determines how many geiko live in each house, so you may have one roommate or six!  The houses are all similar in design, but you can tell which group the geiko belong to by the symbol on the lantern.  You can also tell who lives in each house by the name plates in the upper right hand corner of the door.  Our guide also points out the pile of salt sitting outside the entrance.  It represents purity.  Afterwards as I look around Kyoto and Tokyo I start to notice salt beside doors of houses and businesses.

The salt captures the "bad stuff" so you're pure when you enter the residence.

As we're talking with our guide, she nods down the street and indicates that a geiko is walking our way.  I ask if it's okay to take a picture, and she says yes, from a distance.  So I'm able to show proof of a real geisha!  You actually see quite a few teenage girls/women walking around Kyoto in full makeup and kimono, but they're tourists who pay to have a "geisha" experience.  They are often asked to have their picture taken, which adds to their fun.  I'm not interested in doing it, though.

A real geisha (geiko!)

The reed "wall" on the upper balcony provides additional privacy.

We then stop by a bridge that was in the movie Memoirs of a Geisha, but I don't remember the scene.  It's supposed to be popular for wedding photos, but apparently it's an inauspicious day for marriages, because no couples are there (our guide said normally there's 5-6).  It gives us a chance to get some photos, though!  Steve's never seen the movie, and it's been years since I read the book/saw the movie, so we may have to watch it.

The cars help put the size in perspective!

We stop by Heian Jingu Shrine, which has a giant torii gate entrance.  It was built to celebrate the 1100th anniversary of the capital's foundation in Kyoto.  It's going to be a long time before anything in the US celebrates its 1100th anniversary!  The shrine was built in 1895, so it's one of the "youngest" religious structures we've seen.  It's dedicated to the first and last emperors who ruled from Kyoto, so you see the imperial chrysanthemum symbol on different items.

16 petals = imperial seal.  No one else can use that symbol!

We finish the tour with a visit to the Imperial Palace garden, which is mostly a big park (lots of flat, clear land).  There is one Japanese garden section, with one bonus item - turtles!  We haven't seen them in any of the other gardens.  

Bonus points if you find the turtle!

Once again, we've seen all this before lunch.  Luckily we already have plans for the afternoon...

Kyoto - the Expensive Temples

Pretty frame of the zen gardens.  Cute guy, too!

By lunchtime, we're finished with the itinerary I created for the day, so now what do we do?  We're (kind of) near Saihoji, known as Kokedera (Moss Temple).  It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful temples in Kyoto, so we flag down a taxi for the fifteen minute drive.  Ten minutes after we're in the car, the driver says "Reservation?"  "Oh no," I think.  I know reservations are required for the Imperial sites, but the guide book (Lonely Planet) did NOT say it was necessary for this temple.  I do a quick google check, discover the taxi driver is correct, and Steve and I have a quick conversation to determine where to go next.  

We decide to forget about trying to stay in west Kyoto and head across town to see one of the most popular temples, Ginkaku-ji (Silver Temple).  No reservations required!

Reading about the temple makes the United States feel very young.  "In 1482, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retirement villa on the grounds of today's temple, modeling it after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion).  The villa was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimasa's death in 1490."  (from japan-guilde.com)  Columbus hadn't even made it to the continent, yet.  The pavilion has survived intact since then (through earthquakes and fires), though renovation has continued on it.  You would think from the name it would be covered with silver, but it's thought the nickname came about 400 years ago to differentiate it from the Golden Pavilion.

This "cone" in the zen garden represents Mt. Fuji.

The gardens are beautiful here, too, and there are several sections covered with moss.  Ha!  We didn't need to go to Kokedera, anyway.

This would be pretty in our backyard...

As you look down the hill you can see the crowds.

We have observed that if you're heading uphill, you're on the way to a temple.  EVERY SINGLE ONE requires a hike up a steep road.  Here's the approach to Ginkaku-ji (and you can get an idea of how crowded it was - very!). 
 
But no worries - we stopped for refreshments!  I couldn't resist the grapefruits.  We got to pick the one we wanted, then they drilled a hole and put in a straw.  And maybe we also opted for the shot of rum thrown in....

Do our smiles match the grapefruit's?

It's a ten minute walk to Honen-in Temple, so we decide to check it out.  This one's a little younger; it was built in 1680.  It's my favorite zen garden so far.  I like the spirals, probably because I used them in a quilting design last year. :)    We sit on the steps and contemplate it for awhile, enjoying the quiet (we see only 10 other people the entire time we're here) and recovering from the crowds (or is it the rum?).

This temple supports local artists by giving them a small gallery to sell their work.  Today's artist has canvases on the wall, and he tells us to take pictures, using a flash and without.  The differences are interesting, but I can't figure out how I'd do this if they were hanging in my house.  Would a strobe light work?

without flash

with flash

It's only 2:30 pm, so we decide to push on to the big one - Kinkaku-ji Temple, aka the Golden Pavilion (we take another taxi, because it's about 5 miles away).  This is probably the best known temple in Kyoto, if not in Japan.  And yes, it is coated in real gold leaf.  I found out it's lacquered on, so it doesn't need a lot of maintenance, just every 40 years or so!  The temple has been rebuilt several times in it's (over) 600 year history; with the most recent one occurring after a fire in 1950.

Temple selfie - I think it's a requirement when you go!

The place is packed - you're literally touching multiple people the entire time you're standing at the viewing platform.  You're still able to get some nice photographs and the sunny day allows us to capture the reflection of the temple in the pond.

They let you get really close!

We walk through the garden, which is on the small side.  It's less crowded, though!  I think the buses leave after everyone takes their photos.  I love all the green, but I can see why Kyoto becomes so popular in the autumn when the leaves change colors.















There are many details to take in, but I find the dragons at the top of the gate adorable.  I wish I could take them home!

Is there a gift shopping selling these?

Do you receive more luck if your coin lands closer to the statues?

We see people tossing coins at the statues here, but have no idea why they're doing it.  We shrug and decide to throw some coins, too.  Turns out it's for good luck, but I can't find out why it's supposed to bring you good fortune.  But I'm glad we did it!

Side note - I noticed the temple names tend to end with -ji, so I looked it up.  It's an honorific, showing respect for inanimate objects.  So now you know.

Can you buy these in the store?

At this point we're ready to call it a day.  The temples are starting to run together in our heads.  We decide to go back to the hotel, enjoy our free daily drink, and have dinner on the terrace.  We get another treat though - Steve's tuna is served with a stem of wasabi and a grater.  He gets to make his own fresh wasabi!  He's found a new toy.