Kyoto - the Expensive Temples

Pretty frame of the zen gardens.  Cute guy, too!

By lunchtime, we're finished with the itinerary I created for the day, so now what do we do?  We're (kind of) near Saihoji, known as Kokedera (Moss Temple).  It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful temples in Kyoto, so we flag down a taxi for the fifteen minute drive.  Ten minutes after we're in the car, the driver says "Reservation?"  "Oh no," I think.  I know reservations are required for the Imperial sites, but the guide book (Lonely Planet) did NOT say it was necessary for this temple.  I do a quick google check, discover the taxi driver is correct, and Steve and I have a quick conversation to determine where to go next.  

We decide to forget about trying to stay in west Kyoto and head across town to see one of the most popular temples, Ginkaku-ji (Silver Temple).  No reservations required!

Reading about the temple makes the United States feel very young.  "In 1482, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa built his retirement villa on the grounds of today's temple, modeling it after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion).  The villa was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimasa's death in 1490."  (from japan-guilde.com)  Columbus hadn't even made it to the continent, yet.  The pavilion has survived intact since then (through earthquakes and fires), though renovation has continued on it.  You would think from the name it would be covered with silver, but it's thought the nickname came about 400 years ago to differentiate it from the Golden Pavilion.

This "cone" in the zen garden represents Mt. Fuji.

The gardens are beautiful here, too, and there are several sections covered with moss.  Ha!  We didn't need to go to Kokedera, anyway.

This would be pretty in our backyard...

As you look down the hill you can see the crowds.

We have observed that if you're heading uphill, you're on the way to a temple.  EVERY SINGLE ONE requires a hike up a steep road.  Here's the approach to Ginkaku-ji (and you can get an idea of how crowded it was - very!). 
 
But no worries - we stopped for refreshments!  I couldn't resist the grapefruits.  We got to pick the one we wanted, then they drilled a hole and put in a straw.  And maybe we also opted for the shot of rum thrown in....

Do our smiles match the grapefruit's?

It's a ten minute walk to Honen-in Temple, so we decide to check it out.  This one's a little younger; it was built in 1680.  It's my favorite zen garden so far.  I like the spirals, probably because I used them in a quilting design last year. :)    We sit on the steps and contemplate it for awhile, enjoying the quiet (we see only 10 other people the entire time we're here) and recovering from the crowds (or is it the rum?).

This temple supports local artists by giving them a small gallery to sell their work.  Today's artist has canvases on the wall, and he tells us to take pictures, using a flash and without.  The differences are interesting, but I can't figure out how I'd do this if they were hanging in my house.  Would a strobe light work?

without flash

with flash

It's only 2:30 pm, so we decide to push on to the big one - Kinkaku-ji Temple, aka the Golden Pavilion (we take another taxi, because it's about 5 miles away).  This is probably the best known temple in Kyoto, if not in Japan.  And yes, it is coated in real gold leaf.  I found out it's lacquered on, so it doesn't need a lot of maintenance, just every 40 years or so!  The temple has been rebuilt several times in it's (over) 600 year history; with the most recent one occurring after a fire in 1950.

Temple selfie - I think it's a requirement when you go!

The place is packed - you're literally touching multiple people the entire time you're standing at the viewing platform.  You're still able to get some nice photographs and the sunny day allows us to capture the reflection of the temple in the pond.

They let you get really close!

We walk through the garden, which is on the small side.  It's less crowded, though!  I think the buses leave after everyone takes their photos.  I love all the green, but I can see why Kyoto becomes so popular in the autumn when the leaves change colors.















There are many details to take in, but I find the dragons at the top of the gate adorable.  I wish I could take them home!

Is there a gift shopping selling these?

Do you receive more luck if your coin lands closer to the statues?

We see people tossing coins at the statues here, but have no idea why they're doing it.  We shrug and decide to throw some coins, too.  Turns out it's for good luck, but I can't find out why it's supposed to bring you good fortune.  But I'm glad we did it!

Side note - I noticed the temple names tend to end with -ji, so I looked it up.  It's an honorific, showing respect for inanimate objects.  So now you know.

Can you buy these in the store?

At this point we're ready to call it a day.  The temples are starting to run together in our heads.  We decide to go back to the hotel, enjoy our free daily drink, and have dinner on the terrace.  We get another treat though - Steve's tuna is served with a stem of wasabi and a grater.  He gets to make his own fresh wasabi!  He's found a new toy. 

Kyoto - Arashiyama

We're off on our next adventure, to finally see Kyoto.  It's my first time on the shinkansan (bullet train)!  I'm surprised there are no meals or bento boxes available (like we've had on other trains).  Just snacks and drinks, but it could be because we're traveling in the late afternoon.  It's a pleasant 2 1/2 hour trip, with nice scenery along the way.  Here's Mt. Fuji with some rice fields in the foreground. 

Mt. Fuji & rice paddies

The next morning we're up early to explore Arashiyama, a district in western Kyoto.

Pretty!

Just hanging around

Our first stop is the Arashiyama Monkey Park and I want to be there when it opens to beat the crowds.  We're successful - there's only one person there with us when we visit with the monkeys!  After the twenty minute climb (uphill the whole way, one set of stairs at the beginning) we reach a plateau with a building, a view, and monkeys!  They are free to roam around and not kept in an enclosed area.  In fact, it's the humans that are caged!  You cannot pet the monkeys, and you are warned not to get closer than six feet, don't stare into their eyes, nor crouch down.  You can feed them though - that's when you go in the cage!  

Monkey selfie!

Inside the building you can purchase food (apples or something else...I forget what it was - peanuts, maybe).  We choose apples because I think it's a more appropriate breakfast food.  They are very polite with us, reaching in to delicately take the fruit off our palms.  There's a little bit of monkey screeching outside as other monkeys are told to stay back, but since there's wire on all four sides it's easy for them to find a new spot to hang to get food.  We're very good about distributing the apples equally among the monkeys.

After we finish with the food, we go back outside and see a mother monkey with her baby.  It's hard to remember not to crouch down - they are so cute!  Especially when the baby monkey tries to walk a few steps and just rolls over.  Mom makes sure he isn't hurt.




















You also have a nice view of Kyoto from here.  You should, after the climb!

Did you observe that the sign is in English, not Japanese?

On our way back down the mountain, I have to chuckle at the single warning sign along our path.  There's a fifty foot drop running along the walkway for most of the trip up to the monkeys. This is all the notice you get.  Obviously the "assumption of risk" is at a different level in Japan versus the US!  As we near the entrance/exit we also pass the first busloads of people heading up the hill.  I knew I was right to get there early!

I think his eyes are following me wherever I go!

Once we're down the mountain, it's only a twenty minute walk across the Togetsukyo Bridge and to the Tenryu-ji Temple.  There are over 2000 temples and shrines in Kyoto, so it was nice to have someone recommend it to us, otherwise we might have missed it.  There's a gorgeous Japanese garden, zen rock gardens, and different buildings scattered around.  We're able to tour the Hojo (Abbot's Quarters), which is in the style of traditional Japanese architecture.  There are tatami mat floors and lots of sliding shoji doors (bamboo frames with panes of washi paper).  A few fusuma doors give a little more privacy to the sleeping areas.  The cloud dragon painting on these doors looks really cool.


I love the way these shoji doors frame the garden.

Tatami mats, check.  Shoji doors, check.  House is finished.

I saw someone else taking this photo and "copied" it.

After the building we wander around the garden.  We're lucky to have perfect spring weather - the kind where you're just glad to be alive and outdoors.  Typical with Japanese gardens, every direction is beautiful and there are all sorts of picturesque little nooks.  Steve determines he's going to transform our backyard into a Japanese garden when we return to the US. 

Yes, the little stream made a tinkling sound, because this is a Japanese garden, and it is perfect. 

Steve can feel the zen sinking into him.

As we walk around the different garden sections, one area has the plants and flowers labeled - in English!  I'm excited to identify mountain laurel.  I've never seen it before (that I know of) but it's been mentioned as scenery in books.  Now I can picture it!







 



Heading out towards the north exit, we drift into the Sagano bamboo forest.  This is not the bamboo in your backyard - they must grow 50 feet high and it feels like they go on forever when you stand among them. (You're on a path - you can't actually go walk through them.  Probably too many lost tourists!)

Being lost here must be worse than being lost in a cornfield!

After leaving the temple and walking the rest of the way through the bamboo forest (about 1/4 mile), it only takes a couple of minutes to reach Okochi Sanso Villa.  This had been the home of Japan's most famous silent actor, Okochi Denjiro, until he died in 1962.  He spent over 30 years working on it, and it paid off because it's gorgeous.

the entrance to the gardens

a little moss garden

Steve might have a lot of work in front of him if he wants to do this at our house.

Not only are the gardens unbelievably beautiful, but we're treated to more wonderful views of Kyoto.  I try to be creative and use the maple leaves to frame the city.

I think I see our hotel!

The mountains make a nice picture, too. Can you see the temple on the bluff?

Can you?  Can you?

Included with our 1000 yen (about $10) admission fee to the villa is a cup of green tea and a Japanese sweet.  Steve declares it's the best green tea he's had since he arrived in Japan.

It's only lunchtime!  Still lots to see and do around Kyoto!

Thai Festival

We're here!

One of the things I love about living in Tokyo is almost every weekend there is a cultural festival in Yoyogi Park.  It's like getting to visit Epcot's Food and Wine Fest, one booth at a time.  We now have one of the most popular ones - Thailand!  I read two million people attend the two-day event.  It feels like that from the crowds!

Don't lose me!

Usually there are performances going on throughout the day and some booths selling clothes/sandals/baskets, etc. (That may or not be "traditional" items from that country and may or may not be made in that country; personally, I believe it's all stuff made in China/India, or wherever it is cheapest to manufacture.  In case you haven't figured it out, I haven't bought anything from them.)  This event had something new - monks!  People are waiting to speak with them.  I don't know what they actually do, though.  Pray with/for you?  Is it like going to confession?  Either way, I admire the gorgeous color of their robes.

Now I understand the color saffron!

Apparently fruit carving is also something that is popular in Thailand??  Several booths had decorations in front. 

Too pretty to eat!

I wonder if Steve would be willing to learn how to do this?

After walking by the tents with items for sale, we check out the food and drink booths.  Naturally we have a Thai beer so we don't get thirsty as we stroll down all the aisles.

This is the Singha hat. Steve insisted on wearing it the rest of the day - even at an art exhibit we went to later.

It's hard to take a selfie & hold a bowl of hot soup at the same time!

I was happy to try another fresh version of my current favorite soup - Tom Yum!  Many places are selling it.  Most of the signs are in Japanese or Thai, so we have no way of distinguishing one place from another.  We just pick one that looks like it will be good!  I have soup from two different sellers, but I still like the one from the Cup Noodle Museum the best.

Doesn't my hat look really cool (despite what my wife says)?

Steve has various dishes, then has dessert - mango shaved ice.














We have to stand and eat, since there is limited seating provided.  Locals take care of that problem by bringing their famous blue tarps/blankets with them!  They place them down anywhere that can be considered "out of the way." 

See - there's a path for walking.

Lucky people - they set up in the shade!

Okay, so it doesn't actually have to be a blue tarp.

We enjoy the food and experience so much we decide to go back on Sunday.  We're prepared though - we bring our own "blue tarp."  We're locals now!

My 3rd Tom Yum soup - but Cup Noodle Museum still has the best!